GJ Cleverley - heavy duty hide Chukka of the day

For the day I have sampled a pair of boots, a very popular and appreciated style of boots, a Chukka renditioned by the London based GJ Cleverley house. This style of boot is also known as the "Desert boot" when made of suede and a heavy rubber sole. 
This is no ordinary Chukka boot aka (Desert boot), as this is made of real heavy duty hide (Hippopotamus) with it's three eyelets and fitted with a leather sole and the distinctive Cleverley square chiseled toe last. 

The colour of the boot is also very astonishing as it brings the texture of the hide out and gives it that suede like look. This is the ultimate "Chukka boot" for the Summer, if you wish so, or for the Autumn period. Again the George Cleverley house has released a another white bunny out of their magic bag. Enjoy the Chukka boot.

Three eyelet Chukka boot made of brown "hippo" heavy hide.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

GJ Cleverley - whole cut slipper with side gusset

For the day I have sampled a whole cut slipper from GJ Cleverley establishment in London. The GJ Cleverley house is merely a bit over 50 years but wow, the shoes from this firm are quite a mouth full. This piece of bespoke suede shoes is made of a one piece of hide, has no brogues, stitchings or any ornamentals on it. Just plain, simple and bespoke. Enjoy and appreciate the simple but artistic rendition of this shoe.

Whole cut slipper/bootie with side gussets in the neat Cleverley chisel toe. Stunningly simple and elegant, sleek, classic and timeless. 

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley 

GJ Cleverley - The exotic single monk

For today I have sampled a beautiful rendition of a single strap monk from the London based GJ Cleverley establishment. The last two years or so, a trend prevailed, which was  getting "monks" in double straps or more, a trend which was "fashion like" and was getting a tad too much. So I was pleased to see a simple single strap monk in exotic hide commissioned by gent from The Cleverley's. The gent went back to basics of a single strap, but highlighted the shoe by choosing an exotic hide, a GJ Cleverley suspicious square chisel toe and a beautiful colour to the shoe to compliment the Summer. 
The beauty of this monk lies within the tiny microscopic details. Take the hide, the scaling of the hide gets smaller towards the cap toe, whilst large/larger at vamp and back (heel) part. The polishing, where the scales  join, the colour is different, thus highlighting the scales. The buckle colour blends perfectly well with the rest of the colour shades of the shoe. Stunning beautiful. 

Exotic: yes, classic: yes, timeless: yes, stylish: yes, elegant: yes. 

 A bespoke GJ Cleverley single strap monk in an exotic hide

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

John Lobb - bespoke -Oxford cap toe with brogue vamp

The venerable London based bespoke shoe and bootmaker John Lobb is well known around the world for their shoes, a symbol of classical English shoes, a trademark of the connoisseur, the ultimate shoe lover, so stylish, elegant and timeless. I have been going through their on-line catalogue of bespoke shoes and boots and I recall stopping a few times at the below depicted Oxford laced shoe with a cap toe and a brogue (perforated vamp) no heel counter perforation. 
In my opinion this is the most beautiful rendition of a half brogue Oxford laced shoe with a punched cap toe. Simple, elegant and timeless. The mahogany / cognac colour adds sophistication to it. I do not know many houses that carry this shoe, but it is in my humble opinion a beauty. The cap toe is not darkened as expected but lighter in  colour than the rest of the shoe. Simple yet elegant and refined.

John Lobb's Oxford laced punched cap toe (with medallion) and a brogue vamp. Chisel square toe. 

Photos sourced from John Lobb Bootmaker

Gaziano and Girling - two samples of bespoke shoes

Northampton based Gaziano and Girling, have this "little" tendency of pulling some amazing rabbits from the magic bag of shoes. No wonder they are are so popular amongst the new generation of gents commissioning bespoke shoes/boots.

Below a wing tipped whole cut Adelaide laced Oxford in dark antiqued oak on the TG73 chisel last. Simple, elegant, classic and timeless shoe with a modern twist.

 A three tier Derby in calf and lizard hides with a medallion on the cap toe, round last DG70. Very cool Derby shoe and very sober medallion. Ouch....wish my treasurer box was unlimited. 

Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

GJ Cleverley - V Galosh side gusset with faux laces

Once again the GJ Cleverley house pulls out another rabbit out of the magic bag. Not surprising that they "one of the best" London based shoemakers. The Cleverley house is known for its "very suspicious chisel square toe cap", but they are also known for their side gussets, which were created by Master George Cleverley himself for Sir Winston Leonard-Spencer Churchill, British politician and Prime Minister of the United Kingdom between 1940-1945 and 1951-1955.

The below depicted shoe is a "balmoral" by nature, as the top is separated from the bottom part by a galosh in a V shape. The top part of the shoe is a crocodile hide and the bottom part is black suede with a perforated design on the toe, and with red contrasting faux laces in calfskin matching the lining of the shoe. Wow! I go. 

Once again we see the beauty of a commissioned or bespoke shoe, which is a process that takes time. The commissioner has to think of the details of the shoe, design, styling, choice of leather, artistic details and lastly the envisioning of the product as a whole. Results, a very good looking, elegant, classic and timeless shoe with a personal touch. Whoever the gent is, he definitely has good taste and is a shoe connoisseur. Wear the shoe in good health.

To all of you readers, I wish a great weekend.

GJ Cleverley "V" galoshed side gusset with faux laces in crocodile and suede

Photo sourced from GJ Cleverley

Cliff Roberts - "Lazyman" side gusset shoe with faux laces

Master Cliff Roberts, Northampton based one man operation bespoke shoemaker, never stops amazing me. The popularity of Master Roberts started by some cyberspace gents, shoe forum, shoe lovers and shoe aficionados who got into contact with him to commission a pair or two directly from him. Word by mouth spread around about Master Cliff Roberts works and ...well you know the story by now. Master Roberts can be contacted via Facebook, if needed.

The below is a side gusset with faux laces and a toe cap medallion. I know many gents who dislike the side gusset and adding faux laces it is just not acceptable to them.  
Well, I like the side gussets, I have always said that and the addition of faux laces gives the shoe a dash of a personal touch, in my humble opinion. Not exactly a true laced Oxford, but....a kind of a loafer resembling an Oxford. So in short one has a loafer and an "Oxford" at the same time. Frankly speaking, if one travels a lot, then this is the shoe you need to have. The colour of the shoe is something between black and mid night blue, a beautiful rendition of a side gusset with faux laces. 

Well done Master Cliff Roberts. Looking forward to more works from you.

Side gusset with false laces, cap toe medallion and three piece shoe trees

Photos sourced from Style Forum

WS Foster & Son - Full brogue spectator

What is Spring / Summer period like without a stunning spectator? Not sure... but I think that the spectator is linked to the Spring and Summer. I prefer the brown and white (the white being of buckskin) coloured spectator and must be a full brogue Oxford. So, for the day I have sampled a WS Foster & Son, London bespoke shoemaker's full brogue spectator in brown and white colour combination with a medallion. Soft square chisel toe.  This shoe is Just amazingly beautiful and stunning shoe too. 
Note the punched holes of the brogue and on the medallion have been touched white to bring the beauty and thus admiration for this shoe. Hmm, polishing might take some time on this beauties, as you would not like to ruin the white with a touch of brown. Quite stunning, a beautiful rendition of a full brogue spectator.

WS Foster Full brogue spectator in brown calf and white buckskin with a medallion. Perfect shoe for a linen suit and a Panama hat.

Photos sourced from WS Foster & Son

Paul Davies - Underrated English bespoke shoemaker

Bespoke boot and shoemaker Paul Davies of the London Shoemaker is an underrated bespoke shoe artisan and not so "appreciated". Surfing and researching the web does not give so many hits, very surprising as Mr. Paul Davies makes some very beautiful, traditional English styled shoes, so classic and timeless. Mr. Davies has been in the shoemaking business for over thirty years and learned the craft and art of making bespoke shoes from New and Lingwood, GJ Cleverley and WS Foster  before venturing and establishing his own business.
I encountered Mr. Davies about six or seven years ago when I was looking for a two toned Balmoral oxford and I saw the below depicted brown two toned Balmoral oxford and I was sold right there. I liked everything about this shoe, the last (rounded), the very rich brown colour combined with the brown suede. But along the process of looking and hunting for bespoke shoemakers, I "lost" him. A pity, but I rejoiced when I found him again. I therefore share with you shoe art from Master Davies. Enjoy.

The Usual Suspects line up from Mr. Davies

The two toned Balmoral oxford in brown leather and suede

Close up of the Balmoral oxford cap toe, so neat.

A brown brogued Adelaide oxford, punched cap toe and a medallion on the cap toe

Close up of the medallion on the cap toe, oh well done.

Photos courtesy of Paul Davis blog and Style Forum