The Scandinavian bespoke shoemakers

Scandinavia is known for its fine and timeless, functional designs within furniture, architecture, cars, glassware, porcelain or simple everyday clothing. Mention names/artifacts like Wegner, Arne Jacobsen, Royal Copenhagen, Kosta Boda, Orrefors, True Blue Gold, Rocking Rabbit, Hackman, Volvo and SAAB, and most people will agree about the stylish, elegant and timeless artifacts from Scandinavia. I would not say timeless and elegant  about IKEA and H&M, but nevertheless functional from this region. Most people will nod in consent, yes, that is Scandinavia in a nutshell.

This brings to the topic of the day, a colleague of mine asked me if there were any bespoke shoemakers in the our region (Scandinavia). Yes, I said, but at that time I knew of only one, in Norway, Mr. Myhre.
I was curious myself, so I had to dig a bit. I was disappointed that Scandinavia could only dish out three bespoke shoemakers, when considering that the whole of the Nordic is populated by approximately 25 million people. When comparing the whole of the Scandinavia with Hungary or Poland there are more bespoke shoemakers in each of the sampled countries. Question is, what happened to this trade in Scandinavia? Are the modern Scandinavian men not into classical, stylish, elegant and timeless shoes? Not sure what the answer is, but it is a thought worth.


 For all of Scandinavia(Norway, Sweden and Denmark), I found only three bespoke shoemakers: One in Norway (I already knew about Mr. J. P. Myhre), two in Sweden and unfortunately none in Denmark. Wonder why so in Denmark, is this due to the fact that ECCO is the "Number One Danish Shoe for Gents", or Danish gents do not care what they put on their feet? Hmm....I am not only crying over the lost of bespoke shoe making trade here, but it is more saddening that bespoke tailoring is also in decline in Copenhagen/Denmark. No wonder when Danish men shop their clothing in Bilka a retail chain that sells from nappies, food to, eh (just name it).


The last pair of goodyear welted shoes from Denmark was made by a company that closed in 1974 or so. A pity for the Danish bespoke shoe industry.


Well, enough of the sad news, let us look at the bright side of the industry and the artisans that keep this beautiful art alive & continuous in Scandinavia. A tribute to them.


1) First, a view at Norway,(Bespoke shoes from Mr. Myhre). No doubt that Mr. Myhre makes some very elegant, classic  & timeless shoes. I was told that Mr. Myhre is Lobb trained, no wonder the very artistic shoes. The rendition of the Adelaide in two tone, crocodile and leather, is so intriguing, when I first saw this shoe, I was sold.

2) Sweden - a) Mr. Janne Melkers, offers bespoke shoes and boots. The company has been in the family for three generations. It is my understanding that Mr. Janne is German trained in the shoe making. The pictures are not that good, but we all get the feel of what is being offered. The company also offers courses in shoe making. As I have mentioned earlier, I am a lover of boots, any kind, but when I see a buttoned balmoral boot, I melt. Mr. Janne has two of my favourite shoes, the button balmoral and the brogue side gusset, which is a versatile shoe for travelling. 

Above pictures sourced from Mr. Janne Melkers.

Sweden -b) The last of the Nordic bespoke services are offered by Ladies Carina Eneroth and Asa Rasmussen, the two ladies took over a third generation shoemaker's shop. Their offerings are listed below. From the ladies, the first shoe has a statement. Well, not my cup of tea, but perhaps there are gents out there who may fancy the squared and chopped toe.
The second shoe is very interesting, as I have never seen a Balmoral derby in that design. At first sight, this shoe reminded me of the W. S. Forster "Thomas" Balmoral cap toe, but after inspecting the shoe, I find it very special and intriguing, would not mind owning one, though I am not much into Derbys.

 Above pictures sourced from: Ladies Carina Eneroth and Asa Rasmussen

For Denmark as I said, there exists no bespoke shoemakers to my knowledge. I had to put the below photos of an era long gone. The shoes were made by the last bespoke shoemaker who operated for about 150 years and closed down approximately in 1974. The pair below was found in a second hand shop. Probably the last good year welted shoes from Copenhagen, if not the whole of Denmark. 

The above pictures sourced from: Mr. Grunwald, The Journal of Style

A. P. Moeller A Nordic Style Legend passed away

The Nordic has lost one of its iconic Grand Dukes in style, classic and elegant dressing. A true Gent in timeless dressing within the Nordic. I have watched and noted that Mr. A. P. Møller if dressed in a single breasted suit, it will always be a three piece, otherwise a double breasted suits in mid night blue shade. 


For me Mr. A. P. Møller will remain for now the very best dressed man in the Nordic. The only thing I miss within some of the below pictures is a pocket square.

View the pictures and cast the verdict.

Mr. A. P. Møller with uncle (middle) and father. All three gents with Homburgs as head gear.

Mr. A. P. Møller with father.

Young Mr. A. P. Møller getting married

Mr. A.P. Møller and wife after 65 years of marriage

Picture of younger Mr. A. P. Møller

Elderly Mr. A. P. Møller

Mr. A.P. Møller and his father

Mr. A. P. Møller and with young HRH Queen of Denmark. Mr. Møller in a three piece suiting.

Young HRH Queen of Denmark and younger Mr. A. P. Møller holding a Homborg

A strolling Mr. A. P. Møller, in a three piece suiting.

Elderly Mr. A. P. Møller with HRH Queen of Denmark. Mr. Møeller in a double breasted suiting.

Mr. A. P. Møller showing cufflinks

Mr. A. P. Møller with company insignia cuffs

Mr. A. P. Møller a Danish Knight

Mr and Mrs. A. P. Møller to a Danish Royal baptism, gracefully dressed up for the occasion. Double breasted suiting and a walking stick to aide the fragile Mr. Møller.

Mr. A. P. Møller paying respects to the HRH the Danish Queen and Mr. Bush

Mr. A. P. Møller in smoking accompanied by wife

Mr. A. P. Møller with daughter, in a three piece suit.

 A fragile Mr. A. P. Møller heading to a meeting, but well dressed as always.

 Mr. A. P. Møller the Nordic Grand Duke of elegance & style. A true impeccable Gentleman of the Nordic. May his soul rest in peace.

 Pictures sourced from the Danish press.

Shoe Patina & Glacage

A reader had a comment on this blog regarding my writing on an old pair of shoes (40+ years) recycled by HRH Prince Charles, comment was "the shoes looked lacquered and HRH needs to retire them".  That sparked an investigation from my side to find out what is the difference between Patina and Glacage.


I found out that bespoke shoemakers from France & Italy (are the true masters of both arts), please see blog on Hom, who is a master of the trade. But besides him there are several other artisans who will do the job on your old shoes or new shoes. If it is an old pair it will be revived to its glory, if a new pair then it will be given that dandy look that will differentiate it from the masses.


When attending to shoe polishing, there are different terms used, waxing, glossing, patina etc and the results are amazing and different. It is an art in itself to get and achieve the desired results whether it is the old style spit shine (gloss), which most of us can do or try to. But when it comes to patina, it is a different ball game.


Patina will look like the below depicted pictures which is different from glossing or spit shine. I suppose there is more work in patina creations as it can involve from two up to multiple colours to reach the desired effect of art.

Patina art:

Glacage (Gloss) work of art: My understanding is that shoe lovers bring their shoes to these artists for a revival, put new life into the leather and bring the shoes to their glory again. Looking at the results, I have to admit, these shoes look great and worth the money spent on the revival, whether it is glossing or patina creating.


Now back to what sparked the investigation, the comment from the reader was "HRH shoes looked as if they were lacquered" and I have to strongly disagree. Why would HRH lacquer a John Lobb bespoke shoe? Ah never mind, just my humble opinion.

Boots revival before and after revival (Gloss)

Shoe before revival and after 

Boot before patina and after 

Photos sourced from Paulus Bolten and Pierre Paul of Talon rouge

The Summer assemble - by Hackett

I have been quite for some days during the Easter. I hope you all had a great Easter and enjoyed the days off.  Today I was looking at some of the assembles offered by Hackett from their older Summer catalogue collections. Hackett offers very typical English clothing, stylish, elegant and timeless. 

As a shoe lover, it comes as no surprise that I have to look at the rest of the assemble that will compliment the shoes. I do admire the offerings from Mr. Hackett.

Mr. Hackett very dapper below

Summer outfit from older and current Hackett offerings.

Note that all jackets depicted have a pocket square.

To me jackets without a pocket square look very naked. A pocket square adds that personality, individuality to the well dressed Shoe AristoCat. 

All pictures sourced from Hackett Hackett