Men's hats and Overcoats at Pitti Uomo 2013

Normally I never follow the fashion trends, but I happened to take a look at the fashion gurus and the trend makers within street style clothing as seen from Pitti Uomo 2013. To my delight and surprise, I noted that men's hats and classical coats are making a come back. A good thing for the hat makers. Hopefully more men will join the army of men wearing hats. Looking forward to that.

Classical hats and overcoats, the gent (Left) in a classical double breasted (8-3) navy overcoat, bow tie and a brown Homborg hat. All three men are very classically dressed and very inspiring.

I added the below photo just as a reminder that back in the day (1930's) when things were not looking that bright, men used to dress properly even when standing in line for a job. Note the hats, caps and overcoats worn by these men.

A gent in a Pork Pie Hat, what looks like a Covert Coat/Chesterfield, double breasted stripped suit, flowered tie and a very neat and well trimmed beard. Very cool.

Three bearded men in Pork Pie hats (Man in the middle photo is Sam Lambert)

Sam Lambert (left) in a Lords Hat

Liverano and Takahiro Osaki, the latter in a beautifully cut navy blue Ulster overcoat

The back details of the above Ulster overcoat worn by Mr. Takahiro Osaki

Lino (left) in a checked half belted double breasted overcoat and a two toned monk with a kiltie.

 A gent in all shades of blue, overcoat, double breasted suit, tie, scarf and navy double monk in dark suede.

Funny hats, now this is what is called fashion, these hats remind me of pictures I have seen from the late sixties and seventies when both men and women would wear these type of hats. Since I am into classical men's clothing, I would strongly advice not to acquire this hat. Hmm ....unless you are into one of those creative businesses or you want to appease your second half. If you do get this hat, then good luck.

Photos sourced from Thrashness, Grazia ,Style Gent and Ethan Desu

Inspirational Winter overcoats

As inspiration for the coming cold weather, a good looking, classical, well tailored an fitted overcoat is needed by any gent who cares about his looks and clothing and mostly to keep warm in a stylish manner.
It can be discussed as how many coats does a gent need? I am not sure about that, but a Chesterfield, a Guards coat a Polo and an Ulster overcoat could do for the basic wardrobe. (Follow here)
When bespeaking a coat the styles can vary, be it a Polo double breasted, furred, Ulster, Guards, Paletot, Paddock, Chesterfield overcoat etc. The fitting of the coat, material and silhouette matters. The coat must bring out the masculinity of the wearer, not be bulky but fitted and refined.

As the dear reader will note that the below pictures depicts men who have managed to bring their masculine side out even when wrapped and packed up in heavy cloth, they still manage to look very good, classical, stylish and pleasing to the eye of the viewer.

The below picture depicts an elderly gentleman on his way to "business" wearing a furred coat with a hat. 

Gents in Italy dressed in double breasted camel overcoats

 Italian tailored checked tweed double breasted coat with turned cuffs

 An Italian gent wearing a dashing red coat

Sir Cecil Beaton(CBE) with Greta Garbo taking a walk about town. Sir Beaton wearing a navy Chesterfield overcoat and a Homborg hat.

 Sir Cecil Beaton with Greta Garbo. Sir Beaton in a Guards overcoat.

Sir Beaton in a light coloured Chesterfield overcoat with a velvet collar, wearing a black attire ensemble with pumps (Opera shoes).

Below coats are just for inspiration as they are all modern coats that can be bespoken with your tailor. Green double breasted overcoat

 Italian cut double breasted Ulster in tweed

 Another Ulster coat from Italy but in navy

 Grey Herringbone Paddock overcoat. If you look at the back of the coat (mirror view) you will note that the back of the coat is pleated on the sides. In Navy this is the ultimate formal coat.

 Camel coloured Ulster overcoat note the french cuff on the sleeves. 

 HRH Prince Charles in a double breasted Polo coat - note all men around him including his sons are in very dark coloured overcoats.

All photos sourced from the Internet

The Winter Overcoat debate

It seems I have got myself in a jam, in my quest for the ultimate formal, classical Winter overcoat. In a discussion with my dear friend, who knows more about classic men's clothing than I do, pointed out to me that a Polo Coat is not formal even if GQ says so.
Below depicted third coat (Polo) is meant to be classical and formal by GQ, including a Chesterfield, fourth from left. My friend goes hmmmm.....not sure what that means.

Well, well...my advisor points out that a Polo coat can not be formal, as it was meant for sporting (Polo), and he points out to HRH The Prince Of Wales, who wears this coat when doing something "not so formal". Alright.....Now I get the point...but...wait a second

Or when the Prince Of Wales goes .....with a walking stick

I thought I did understand, but I got lost when, I saw the below pictures of a Camel coloured coat and looking formal, not über but still formal. I am not quite certain if I can spot the discrepancy between below and above. Can you? 

As far I can spot, the Polo coat is with patch pockets and loose fitted than what HRH is wearing, though it may be in an informal circumstance, the coat looks great. Eh..did I miss something. Someone, please spell it out for me. I am getting a bit frustrated. To me it's an Ulster in Camel wool. Help me out...

Pictures sourced from the Internet and GQ from the UK

The Paddock overcoat

A friend asked me today, why am I writing about a winter coat in the middle of summer. Well, as I said, I need a formal, classical and stylish coat, so it is now I have to commission one and not in the middle of winter. That will be too late. 
This brings me back to the Paddock coat, as my favourite, however not sure that I can get a tailor that can do the job (right) for me. Look at the below pictures and you will understand why.

Paddock Overcoat from the front 

Paddock Overcoat from the back

This type of coat as you can see, it is not an everyday sighting, look at the pleated rear vents and the double cuff on the sleeves. I consider this coat to be the ultimate formal overcoat.

Well, my second choice could be this great Ulster Coat as shown below with fur(astrakhan wool) on the collar, again, who can make this for me? Both coats are majestic in my humble opinion. What do you think?

A third option which is accessible is the King's coat, more about that next time.

Pictures sourced from the Internet.