Autumn - continuing

As Autumn is here, one will need an overcoat to keep the body warm and a hat to keep the brains warm too. Below illustration depicts two gents in hats, Homburg and bowler, heavy suiting cloth, heavy tweed herringbone overcoat with turn back cuffs, gloves, bold checked suit, well polished oxfords and umbrellas. All accessories of an English gent. Both topping the ensemble off with boutonnieres. Elegancy with simplicity.

Illustration/photo sourced from Cyberspace

Autumn - coats and more

Autumn is for heavier cloth to keep one warm, whether it be the overcoat or the suiting cloth. The below illustration depicts a gent in a double breasted peak lapel checked tweed coat (Glen Urquhart), navy flannel trousers (chalk stripped) and a dark grey Homburg hat. The outfit is complimented by a black oxford cap toe shoe. An English man, indeed doing his business in town.

 Two gents hailing a taxi in London. The gent on the left wears, a Crombie style double breasted coat with a velvet collar, six buttons, four functioning. Outfit is topped by a Homburg hat, an umbrella. So British. The simplicity of elegancy. The gent on the right, a suit, bowler hat and an umbrella. Perhaps a butler.

Photos sourced from Cyberspace

Vintage Gentleman's Astrakhan overcoat from 1907

Dear Readers, I could not resist blogging about the below vintage Astrakhan coat when I spotted it on eBay - UK,  genuine piece of history, a luxurious and imperial Gentleman's Astrakhan coat from 1907. The coat is made of luxurious materials which are: Astrakhan (pure Persian lambswool) collar of the finest quality, heavy wool (felt) forming the main body of the coat; Mink/Sable/musquash fully lined. These materials create a very insulating overcoat that is incredibly thick and carrying some weight. 
The previous owner (D. G. Landale, Esq.) was probably a man of wealth and power, as this piece did not come cheap even back then in 1907. All in all a very beautifully made overcoat that will keep even the Siberian winter cold far away from the wearer.

The vintage Astrakhan coat from 1907.

 Mink/Sabble fur inner-lining

 Wrap-up with Astrakhan collar

 Ticket pocket and turn-up sleeve, nice touch.

 Details of the back of the coat

Photos sourced from eBay-UK

Winter overcoats by HRH Prince Phillip - Duke Of Edinburgh

Winter great overcoats as worn by HRH Prince Phillip (The Duke of Edinburgh)

Civilian styled bespoke navy double breasted coat (4 -buttons - 2 working) complimented by a top hat. Note the pocket square elegantly tucked into the overcoat's breast pocket. Nice touch, not to mention those spit shined oxfords.

 The Duke of Edinburgh in full military outfit. Look at that beautiful double breasted Royal Navy Greatcoat, with eight buttons - four functioning). Lovely coat.

Photos sourced from Who Two

Missed a Navy Great Overcoat

About a two months ago I was notified about this great Dutch Navy overcoat and I did not act prudently, and to my dismay I lost this beautiful coat, so majestic, royal, imperial, masculine. It is my understanding that the overcoat was tailored for an officer in the Dutch Navy. Now I can sit here and .....weep like a baby. Indeed a beautiful coat.

Dutch Royal Navy Greatcoat

Photo sourced from Landum Vintage

Inspirational Winter overcoats

As inspiration for the coming cold weather, a good looking, classical, well tailored an fitted overcoat is needed by any gent who cares about his looks and clothing and mostly to keep warm in a stylish manner.
It can be discussed as how many coats does a gent need? I am not sure about that, but a Chesterfield, a Guards coat a Polo and an Ulster overcoat could do for the basic wardrobe. (Follow here)
When bespeaking a coat the styles can vary, be it a Polo double breasted, furred, Ulster, Guards, Paletot, Paddock, Chesterfield overcoat etc. The fitting of the coat, material and silhouette matters. The coat must bring out the masculinity of the wearer, not be bulky but fitted and refined.

As the dear reader will note that the below pictures depicts men who have managed to bring their masculine side out even when wrapped and packed up in heavy cloth, they still manage to look very good, classical, stylish and pleasing to the eye of the viewer.

The below picture depicts an elderly gentleman on his way to "business" wearing a furred coat with a hat. 

Gents in Italy dressed in double breasted camel overcoats

 Italian tailored checked tweed double breasted coat with turned cuffs

 An Italian gent wearing a dashing red coat

Sir Cecil Beaton(CBE) with Greta Garbo taking a walk about town. Sir Beaton wearing a navy Chesterfield overcoat and a Homborg hat.

 Sir Cecil Beaton with Greta Garbo. Sir Beaton in a Guards overcoat.

Sir Beaton in a light coloured Chesterfield overcoat with a velvet collar, wearing a black attire ensemble with pumps (Opera shoes).

Below coats are just for inspiration as they are all modern coats that can be bespoken with your tailor. Green double breasted overcoat

 Italian cut double breasted Ulster in tweed

 Another Ulster coat from Italy but in navy

 Grey Herringbone Paddock overcoat. If you look at the back of the coat (mirror view) you will note that the back of the coat is pleated on the sides. In Navy this is the ultimate formal coat.

 Camel coloured Ulster overcoat note the french cuff on the sleeves. 

 HRH Prince Charles in a double breasted Polo coat - note all men around him including his sons are in very dark coloured overcoats.

All photos sourced from the Internet

Winter overcoat debate part II

I enjoy the Fall and Winter seasons very much as it is the time for the coats to come out and have their glory. I have earlier brought the overcoat topic up, here, as I was not sure which style of overcoat I should decide on. But after searching the Internet and debating with sartorial gents, I concluded that a Guards coat and or double breasted Astrakhan coat will be best for me at the moment. My inspiration comes from the below pictures of the named coats. The Astrakhan overcoat I find it very royal and majestic, the coat will be used for formal activities such as a visit to the Opera, black tie events, whilst the Guards overcoat will be for complimenting suits on special occasions. Not a day to day wear as I have other coats for that.

I will be in receipt of the Guards coat in about three weeks from now. The coat is a navy blue colour and a very heavy wool cloth.

Duke of Kent seen below wrapped up in an Astrakhan furred overcoat, holding a top hat, and accompanied by Princess Marina. 

The late Duke of Windsor's (Edward the VIII) Astrakhan overcoat

The Late Duke of Windsor's Guards overcoat, eight buttons - four buttoning, clearly shows the direct link to the Royal Navy Great Overcoat though without the brass buttons, epaulettes and rank distinction on the arms and shoulders. 

HRH Prince Charles  seen wearing a a double breasted Guards coat in navy blue, six buttons - four buttoning. I like the posture - very majestic - indeed,

All pictures sourced from the Internet

The Winter Overcoat debate

It seems I have got myself in a jam, in my quest for the ultimate formal, classical Winter overcoat. In a discussion with my dear friend, who knows more about classic men's clothing than I do, pointed out to me that a Polo Coat is not formal even if GQ says so.
Below depicted third coat (Polo) is meant to be classical and formal by GQ, including a Chesterfield, fourth from left. My friend goes hmmmm.....not sure what that means.

Well, well...my advisor points out that a Polo coat can not be formal, as it was meant for sporting (Polo), and he points out to HRH The Prince Of Wales, who wears this coat when doing something "not so formal". Alright.....Now I get the point...but...wait a second

Or when the Prince Of Wales goes .....with a walking stick

I thought I did understand, but I got lost when, I saw the below pictures of a Camel coloured coat and looking formal, not über but still formal. I am not quite certain if I can spot the discrepancy between below and above. Can you? 

As far I can spot, the Polo coat is with patch pockets and loose fitted than what HRH is wearing, though it may be in an informal circumstance, the coat looks great. Eh..did I miss something. Someone, please spell it out for me. I am getting a bit frustrated. To me it's an Ulster in Camel wool. Help me out...

Pictures sourced from the Internet and GQ from the UK

The Paddock overcoat

A friend asked me today, why am I writing about a winter coat in the middle of summer. Well, as I said, I need a formal, classical and stylish coat, so it is now I have to commission one and not in the middle of winter. That will be too late. 
This brings me back to the Paddock coat, as my favourite, however not sure that I can get a tailor that can do the job (right) for me. Look at the below pictures and you will understand why.

Paddock Overcoat from the front 

Paddock Overcoat from the back

This type of coat as you can see, it is not an everyday sighting, look at the pleated rear vents and the double cuff on the sleeves. I consider this coat to be the ultimate formal overcoat.

Well, my second choice could be this great Ulster Coat as shown below with fur(astrakhan wool) on the collar, again, who can make this for me? Both coats are majestic in my humble opinion. What do you think?

A third option which is accessible is the King's coat, more about that next time.

Pictures sourced from the Internet.

I need a Winter Overcoat - which should be?

I need a Winter Overcoat, just can not make my mind after realising that an Overcoat, Top coat can be so many things. Today the most common overcoat is a Chesterfield, if one lives in the UK or a double breasted wool coat. Most men will settle for engineered garments of some synthetic material to cover their suits or tuxedos when venturing out even for very formal occasions. Ah... I get distressed.

But for years until maybe the mid sixties, mens classic Winter coats came in different styles and cuts depending on the occasion to be used on.

Currently, I have two Chesterfields (navy & black), and a covert coat, which are not for the Full Monty occasion, therefore the need for a full monty classic overcoat.Below picture by style illustrator Mr. Fellow, depicts three classical "English" top coats, the Ulster, Guards coats and on the left a reversible coat.

A Chesterfield below as worn by Lord Anthony Eden. A beautiful coat, however not that majestic.

A Guards coat or "Kings coat" as Crombie names it (left)

What about a Paddock coat, the ultimate formal coat (right)

Well, well, could also settle for a Camel Polo coat as HRH The Prince of Wales below

Pictures sourced from the Internet.