Bespoke shoes from Osamu Egewa - Japan

For the day I have sampled shoes and boots from Master Esamu Egewa  from Japan. Some of the shoes have a bit of a twist, splash and dash which I have never seen before. I would like to highlight the wing Balmoral Oxford in brown calf and brown suede, where the lacing is extra covered. Interesting indeed. The black calf and black suede Chukka with the tassel lacings. Another interesting and unique creation. Lastly the button Balmoral boot, nothing strange about it, rather the hide selection, which is a combination of calf and what looks like elephant hide (top part) then it is green(ish).

Well take a peak and judge for yourselves.

Wing Balmoral Oxford with extra closing

 Two toned Balmoral Boot in calf and Calf (upper grained hide in brown)

 Bootie, not sure to name it Chukka, but a bootie in calf and suede with strange lacing.

 Button Balmoral boot in calf and exotic (elephant??) two toned

Co-respondant Full brogue Oxford boot

 Co-respondant full brogue Oxford shoe

 Stitched cap toe Oxford in a nice antique patina

Photos sourced from Master Esamu Egewa 

Stamp Shoes - Nicholas Cooper bespoke shoemaker

Nicholas Cooper aka "Stamp shoes" is a bespoke shoemaker situated within the heart of Northampton (England), serving clients in London and the United Kingdom. For the day I have sampled some of Master Nicholas Cooper's creations for you to review and admire.

The Balmoral button oxford boot in two tones with a medallion, made of leather and suede as renditioned by Master Cooper. As you know by now, I will never miss an opportunity to mention Balmoral button boots, as I have this fascination of the BBB.

Two toned Derby full brogue

A burgundy wing tipped oxford, I simply love this colour

 A simple Derby in reddish leather

 An Adelaide plain oxford

Photos sourced from Stamp Shoes and The Shoe Snob

Horace Batten - Boot and Shoemaker

I have to admit that sometimes in the quest for bespoke shoemakers, I do stumble upon artisans who for generations produced and still produce shoes but in all quietness. No fancy address, show rooms and or even advertisements. One of these artisans is a Northamptonshire (UK) based bespoke boot and shoemaker for seven generations, Horace Batten family establishment. Very discreet indeed. Now how many of the London bespoke shoe houses will produce a size 72 riding boot as shown below? I take my hat off for this family.

The size 72 riding gear have been created for the 33ft Lady Godiva puppet in celebration of the London 2012 Cultural Olympiad.

Horace Batten making a shoe for the puppet Godiva

When I saw the below button Balmoral boot, I knew I had to include the Horace Batten house on this blog. After looking and viewing the button boot from the Horace house, I concluded and decided that I need a button balmoral boot from them. I will be in contact with them, soon...very soon.

Button Balmoral boot from the Horace Batten house

Riding boots from the Batten house

Photos sourced from http://Ancient Industries blog and Horace Batten

Crockett and Jones - Button Balmoral boot from the archives

For the day I have sampled a pair of boots from an era gone.
A button Balmoral boot directly from the Crockett and Jones archives. C and J provided the footwear worn by Mr. James Bond in the latest bond movie Sky Fall.

A Crockett and Jones Button Balmoral Boot, this is a stunning boot. Very inspirational.

Photo sourced from Dimitri Gomez

John Lobb - two and three toned creations

John Lobb needs no introduction in the bespoke shoe business, same as Rolex, Mercedes Benz or Coca Cola are well known brands around the world. Just enjoy JL's creations. 

Balmoral Boots line up

 Button Balmoral shoe with punched cap toe. This type of shoe I have never seen on a gent's feet in real life. Very formal and elegant. 

 Laced Balmoral oxford in black leather and grey suede 

 Full brogue spectator, very nice looking shoe for the Summer.

Photos sourced from Engrande Pompe Forum

Cliff Roberts - Bespoke Button Balmoral Boots and more

Master Cliff Roberts has made a beautiful rendition of a buttoned balmoral boot which can be seen below. I can not stop mentioning that I am sold when it comes to balmoral boots, especially the buttoned ones. What is interesting about Master Cliff's pieces is that all are commissioned by clients who heard about him from the net or mouth to mouth service. 
The beauty and endless options of bespeaking a pair of shoes/boots is: the client decides the last, select the leather and colour, decoration (medallion, brogue, punching, gimping, sole type and more) and the style (monk, oxford, derby, whole cut etc.) of the shoe/boot. Master Cliff has two lasts, a square chisel and a round last. However he accommodates if and when the client brings his/her favourite last along. Not many bespoke shoemakers accommodate for that.

As mentioned earlier on this blog (here), Master Cliff is a "One Man bespoke operation" ala Eric Cook, which means it takes time to get the product out of his hands, but this is true of most artisans who work solo. As said, a one man operation, but the end product is amazing and worth the waiting process.
For those gents who are into exotic leathers, you can see his work here which was a gift for his son. 

A punched cap toe two toned button balmoral boot in black and dove grey suede. These are working buttons and not sham, please note that.

A two toned buttoned balmoral boot (black and grey suede), the shoe on the left is a pigskin punched cap toe oxford also on the squared chisel toe.

 A brown on brown (leather and suede) laced balmoral boot (square chisel toe). I am in favour of the side seams punched and gimped instead of simple stitching as on the above boot. 

 A black leather and cream suede laced balmoral boot on the square chisel toe.

Photos sourced from Master Cliff Roberts

A 1900-1910 Peal Vintage Balmoral buttoned boot

For today I have picked up an old two toned buttoned balmoral boot from Peal the English bespoke shoemaker, the company closed in 1965. 

 "Peal and Co were founded in 1565 and were the oldest-established and most successful makers in the World, employing up to 200 staff. The firm was established in Durham and moved to Derby in 1765, reaching London in 1791. In 1953 Peal bought their Oxford Street neighbours, Bartley and Son, inheriting their Boot and Fox emblem and moved to Wigmore Street in 1958. The business closed early in 1965, when the family decided that lack of family succession, a declining trade and shortage of skilled staff made closure their best option. The closure of Peal and Co was very helpful to the remaining shoemakers in London including Foster and Son, who acquired two important assets, the boot and fox emblem and Terry Moore.The Peal family had an excellent reputation as innovators, and developed a semi-mechanised production method (not used by us) by which a last hand-made by Terry (Terry Moore last maker at Foster and Son )and his colleagues could be duplicated up to 8 times on a copying lathe. The pattern-cutting was done by hand, but the making itself was done in a large works in Shepherds Bush to increase productivity. The unique Peal "easy exit" last was very suitable for riding boots and slippers. Terry brought many of the Peal lasts with him to 83 Jermyn Street and today our collection of old Peal lasts are retained as a valuable reference point for certain styles of riding boots and slippers for which they where particularly suited". 

Here is a vintage two toned Balmoral buttoned boot from about 1900-1910, in brown (tan/chestnut) and white calf hide, punched cap toe, a single sole and seven functional buttons. Even for its age the boot has a nice patina and shows that it was well kept and cared for by the owner. It is a very stunning & beautiful boot. 

Peal & Co (England) Buttoned Balmoral boot from 1900-1910

Terry Moore (last maker extraordinaire) and his "brood" - Emma, Emiko and Kasia.

Pictures sourced from the Internet, Style forum and Peal's history from Ask Andy About Clothes.

Buttoned Balmoral boots from Perfetto

I can not have enough of Balmoral boots, be laced or buttoned. The Japanese boot & shoemaker "Perfetto" had these beauties exhibited at Pitti. 

Perfetto two toned buttoned balmoral boots

Pictures sourced from Dandy Shoe Care Tumblr

Gabriele D' Annunzio - Italian Dandy, poet & more

Mr. Gabriele D' Annunzio (1863-1938), Italian author, military hero and a political leader.
His colorful career, his scandalous relationships, his daring in wartime, his eloquence and political leadership in two national crises, all contributed to make him one of the most striking personalities of his day. But for the day we will look into Mr. D' Annunzio's shoe (rather boot) collection, which is amazing & breath taking that his shoe wardrobe was 90% made of balmoral boots in all imagined combinations. Hope you all have a pleasant weekend.

Gabriele D' Annunzio himself

In civilian and military uniform

Black and grey balmoral boot with three piece shoe trees

 White balmoral boots

Balmoral boots collection and spats

 Boot/Shoe cases with three piece boot trees

Mr. D' Annunzio's shoe trees

Pictures sourced from Flickr and Britannica