Imai Hiroki - The Ultimate Summer sandal

Mostly for the Summer men are in loafers, boaters, Belgian shoes, espadrilles (for the beach) very seldom do we see a sandal shoe. For the day I have sampled a very unique sandal shoe from Master Imai Hiroki . The sandal is in to tones, open to let ventilation  pass through when it gets very hot - air condition we could say. 
The design is very unique, so well done and executed, this shoe it's worth any shoe wardrobe. Enjoy it.

Master Imai Hiroki sandal for those very hot days

Photo sourced from Master Imai Hiroki's Facebook Profile

GJ Cleverley - Punched full brogue side gussets with faux laces

The beauty of going bespoke, the design, pattern, leather, last, colour, brogueing or punching, inner lining and more. As I have said before going into the process of bespoke, be it a suit, coat, shoes and overcoat or more it is not just purchasing but a process of commissioning something that will last for many years. For the day I have sampled a favourite shoe of mine, a side gusset with faux laces from GJ Cleverley. 
Now let us a take a full brogue, strip it off (away with the brogue stitchings), just leave the punching, then add the faux laces in a darker colour than the shoe, pinched it up with the GJ Cleverley square chisel toe and made from the Whiskey calf hide and then dash it up with side gussets on both sides. Oh ---what do we have? A full brogue (punched) no stitchings to distract the eye from the punching, add side gussets and with faux laces, so elegant, simple, yet very refined and classic.
So English, rather so GJ Cleverley's(que) and not within 10 000 Km's will you see something similar. Oh if my pocket was deep enough, I could relieve some of the heavy burden from my pocket and make the Cleverley's cash box a lot heavier.

Bespoke GJ Cleverley full brogue (no stitchings) punched side gusset with faux laces.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverly

HRH Prince Charles and his patched grey suit

HRH Prince Charles, Prince of Wales and the Duke of Rothesay (Scotland) and Duke of Cornwall (South West England), was recently spotted wearing the same grey suit over several occasions. We are all aware that The Prince of Wales is a man who recycles his shoes, now we can add the grey suiting to the recycling process. Here it shows that the Duke of Cornwall does care for his clothing, which are bespoke by Anderson & Sheppard. Wonder why the Prince Of Wales has been selected best dress gent over time. Well done your Royal Highness we can learn a thing or two from you.

The Prince of Wales in his grey double breasted suiting from Anderson and Sheppard, which has been patched after a mishap.

Same double breasted suiting worn on another occasion

The patching on the grey suiting. Well done. 

Same suit in different occasions

The Prince of Wales and Mr Hitchcock (AS) sort through a box of offcuts from the Prince's suits. Photo: John Spinks from Fashion-Telegraph-UK

Photos sourced from Benpentreath, Telegraph and Daily Mail

Master Cliff Roberts - A Summer tassel loafer

The Summer has been extremely hot in Europe and seems to hold the high temperatures for a time still. I was about not to continue on Summer clothing and shoes, but due to the very high heat, it will still be appropriate to mention some of the Summer offerings from diverse bespoke shoemakers and bespoke tailors. For the day I have sampled a pair of tassel loafers in real Summer colours (two toned) red and tannish in a square toe last. This is a product from Master Cliff Roberts the "One man bespoke operation".  Many of you know by now that besides GJ Cleverley my other favourite shoemaker is Master Cliff Roberts.

The colouring (patina) seems to have been done directly onto the leather rather than creating the patina by polishing, I maybe wrong on that, will have to ask Master Cliff Roberts about the technique used. Why I love this loafer and it's colours, it's because it still looks very sober and not shouting at the world. Would not mind this piece of shoe as part of my Summer arsenal.

Master Cliff Roberts Summer tassel loafer

Photo sourced from Master Cliff Roberts Face Book profile

Putting it together like the Ambrosi's from Naples

I have often asked myself the question, how do the artisans (of clothing, shoes, ties etc) pull their sartorial look together? For the day, I went no further than looking into what the "worlds ultimate bespoke trouser maker" wear, not just wear but how do they pull the ultimate timeless, classical and very stylish impression. So to come with an answer I sampled the "Ambrosi look", father and son, how they do it.   

Mr. Antonio Ambrosi (Ambrosi Sr) in a blue single breasted suiting, shirt, stripped tie and oxblood Oxfords. Note no shirting showing between the trousers and the belt. The trousers drapes perfectly well even when Mr. Ambrosi is in movement.

Mr. Salvatore Ambrosi (Ambrosi Jr) in a double breasted suit with large peaked lapels, white shirt, white pocket square and a tie, paired with an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Further down we will look at the details. 

Closer look at the details of the tailoring of the jacket. The the tie maybe a Passagio Cravatte not sure, but could be

 Oh yes, blue sox and an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Cool. 

Photos sourced from Ambrosi of Napoli

TYE Bespoke Linen co-respondent shoe

I am fascinated by the Japanese bespoke shoemakers, each time I look at some of their artisanship and craftsmanship, makes me think of the saying "the sky is the limit", which seems not to apply for them. They push beyond the skies into outer-space. 
I have now sampled a bespoke linen and calf co-respondent shoe made by Tye Shoemaker of Japan. Now I thought I had seen it all, but this was the top notch of bespoke shoemaking. So simple, yet refined, classical shoe and beautifully executed. WOW! Stunning shoe. Yes, the sky will never be the limit. 

Linen and calf bespoke co-respondent Oxford shoe by Tye Shoemaker

Photo sourced from Bespoke Makers

Giacopelli and Dandy Shoe Care Collaboration - tassel loafer

A while ago a blogged about Giacopelli shoes from Parma (Italy) and at the time assumed that there was a working collaboration between Giacopelli and Dandy Shoe Care. Now I can cement that statement, indeed there is a connection between the shoemaker and the The patina Grand Wizard (Dandy Shoe Care).

As explained earlier, I assumed that Giacopelli and Dandy Shoe Care had a working relationship, and for the day I have sampled a tassel loafer made in Russian Reindeer hide by Giacopelli and handled and treated by Dandy Shoe Care.

Below depicted is a tassel loafer in Russian Reindeer hide before the Grand Wizard of Patina gives it an artistic hand treatment and care, and the look after Dandy Shoe Care treatment.
 The choice of the leather and patina elevates  the same shoe to higher and better dimensions. Judge yourself by comparing the pictures of the same shoe style. Compare to the last picture, the same shoe but different hide.
The raw Reindeer tassel loafer.

The processed shoe by Dandy Shoe Care 

The same tassel loafer in a different hide handled by the Grand Wizard too. The above gives a dash and splash due to the texture of the hide. Stunning.

Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care and Giacopelli shoes

GJ Cleverley - Grained Cordovan Full brogue for the countryside

I am aware that the English shoemakers are not very keen of Cordovan, "crup" as it is called in the UK. Cordovan is the American bang. But ...yes, when I saw this "crup" grained full brogue from GJ Cleverley, I go Wow!

I almost passed it but then, a better look at the hide, punching details and overall look of the shoe and colour then I was interested. It is a very interesting shoe, first and foremost grained Cordovan hide, then the punching and brogueing, which might look excessive and too much. But we have to go back in the day when brogues had a purpose in the Highlands. 

Will not go into details, now this is a perfect shoe for the country side with tweeds, will perhaps go hand in hand with a city suit, but can not imagine how? 

 Another thing distinctive with the shoe is the punching /brogue has a contrast to the grain and texture of the "crup" not to mention the white welting stitches which matches the brogue/punching. Oh, almost forgot not using blind eyelets, thus giving the shoe a vintage look. Difficult polishing this shoe, unless keeping with natural polish.

The beauty of going bespoke, where the commissioner of the shoe goes wild but keeps the traditions and knows what is classic, elegant and timeless. Nothing fancy just bespoke and from GJ Cleverley. Well done and no more talk.

GJ Cleverley rendition of full brogue with extra punching made of grained Crup/cordovan

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

Saskia Wittmer bespoke shoes - Florence

The men's bespoke shoe industry (artisanship) is mostly dominated by men, all most in all continents (Europe, The Americas, The United Kingdom and Japan). However that does not mean and say that there are no women in this industry. Most famous and known is Madame Olga Berluti from Berluti, then we have Madame Deborah Carré from the duo CarreDucker based in England (the other member being James Ducker), Sweden 
has two ladies (Carina & Asa) in the shoemaking field. WS Foster & Son has currently Emma and Emiko, the latter from Japan, maybe in the near future both will venture into their own brand of bespoke shoemaking. 

When thinking of Florence in regards to bespoke shoemaking, names like Hidetaka Fukaja, late Stefano Bemer, Antonio Mannina and Roberto Ugolini comes to mind, now add Madame Saskia to the list. Madame Saskia Wittmer,  a Berlin born, moved to Florence and a student of late Stefano Bemer, runs the Saskia house in Florence (Italy).

Madame Saskia window and logo display in Florence (Italy)

A beautiful rendition of a co-respondent full brogue in brown and white

A full brogue Oxford in antiques polishing

A quarter brogue Oxford with a cap toe medallion

A classical black Oxford with a punched cap toe

A strapped loafer in exotic hide and the apron in white linen

Display 

A whole cut Oxford in black calf hide 

A Balmoral wing tip Oxford in calf and suede

Photos sourced from MerciMeLord, News about shoes and Necessities

GJ Cleverley - heavy duty hide Chukka of the day

For the day I have sampled a pair of boots, a very popular and appreciated style of boots, a Chukka renditioned by the London based GJ Cleverley house. This style of boot is also known as the "Desert boot" when made of suede and a heavy rubber sole. 
This is no ordinary Chukka boot aka (Desert boot), as this is made of real heavy duty hide (Hippopotamus) with it's three eyelets and fitted with a leather sole and the distinctive Cleverley square chiseled toe last. 

The colour of the boot is also very astonishing as it brings the texture of the hide out and gives it that suede like look. This is the ultimate "Chukka boot" for the Summer, if you wish so, or for the Autumn period. Again the George Cleverley house has released a another white bunny out of their magic bag. Enjoy the Chukka boot.

Three eyelet Chukka boot made of brown "hippo" heavy hide.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

Visiting shoemakers in Budapest - Rozsnyai Shoes - part one

My dear blog readers profound apologies for being quite for some time, I just happened to be in Hungary (Budapest) and had to pay the famous Hungarian shoemakers a visit. I was fortunate enough to go into Mr. Vass Laszlo's establishment, he has two stores on the same street not far from each other and right in the heart of the city of Budapest. 

Not far from Mr. Vass there are other two Hungarian shoemakers, Buday Shoes and Rozsnyai. Unfortunately never had a chance to go into Rozsnyai, but did take some pictures through the display window.

I have to apologise for the almost crappy photos taken with an Iphone, but you all get the idea as what is offered by the Hungarian shoemakers in this case the Rozsnyai establishment. Need not say that the first week of my stay was very hot, almost unbearable, but the flooding had retracted. So that was good. 

For the day I will post a few shoes offered by Mr. Rozsnyai.

I almost passed the shop, when I saw the below pastel coloured whole cut Adelaide with punched holes and no brogues in green and blue on a chisel square toe last, similar to the Crockett and Jones 348 Last. 

A double strapped monk with a wing tip cap toe. Very elegantly done

 A green and black Oxford (the green hide looks like lizard, but could be mistaken) also on a chisel square toe last

 A Derby in brown Ostrich hide

 My favourite from Rozsnyai was the below strapped loafer in exotic hide. 

All photos sourced from me  "The Shoe Aristo Cat"