More Japanese beauties - Master Daizo Emori

Master Daizo Emori Japanese bespoke shoemaker has made a rendition of a semi brogue cap toe with medallion, on a square chisel toe last. This shoe resembles some older bespoke W. S. Foster and G. J. Cleverley made shoes, not to forget Master shoe designer and shoemaker N. Tuzcek and Eric Cook. I suppose the inspiration for this shoe is from the afore named bespoke shoe masters and houses.

I like the shoe because the lines, decoration and perforations are well balanced and the dark brown colour shows the attention to small details.

Master Emori himself in working attire.

 The semi brogue oxford with cap toe with a medallion

Side views of the shoe

The back of the shoe

The sole of the shoe

Upper view of the shoe

Client fitting, probably final stage of the fitting process.

Photos sourced from the En grande pompe forum

Spring 2012 is here - colours for Spring and Summer

Today I will look into the Spring/Summer shoes, rather the lighter coloured shoes that compliment the sunny days & warm weather. Yesterday I packed the dark(er) coloured shoes away and brought the lighter ones out for a spit shine where applicable.


Well, here in the Nordic, Spring is still far from us, still cold and windy, today wetness with hail was added to the cold & wind. Imagine, how that felt like, I was cold. But as we say up here, "there is no bad weather, just inappropriate dressing." How very true.


I am still looking forward to Spring, so when I saw Drakes of London Spring and Summer collection 2012, I was inspired to blog about lighter coloured shoes to compliment the sunny & warmer days to come.

Drakes of London Spring & Summer colours for 2012

Spring / Summer coloured shoes are a must to have for a Shoe AristoCat, Shoe lover, Shoe snob or any Gent into classical shoes. Below are bespoke pieces by Tony Gaziano's hand from his time at Edward Green. 

Quarter brogue oxford

 Quarter brogue punch cap toe side gusset

 Full brogue with initial as a medallion

 Full brogue with medallion

 Semi brogue no cap toe with medallion

 Butterfly loafer (1) split toe

Butterfly loafer (2) with brogueing on the apron

Pictures sourced (shoes) Tony Gaziano (Gaziano & Girling), Drakes of London

The Ultimate Bespoke Shoemaker Nikolaus Tuczek

The Rolls Royce, the Leornado Da Vinci of shoemaking, Nikolaus Tuczek Ltd were boot and shoe makers who traded from 1853-1970. The company was taken over by John Lobb in 1970.

Quote From Classic shoes for men : "The late, lamented firm of Tuczek of #17 Clifford Street, W1, bespoke society shoemaker, is a legend in the trade among historians and collectors. The importance of this master is only confirmed by the fact that George Cleverley, considered by some to be the finest shoemaker of the late 20th century, began his career with Nikolaus Tuczek in 1920 and remained with the firm 38 years before opening his own workshop. Tuczek’s designs are exceptionally sleek and most often feature his characteristic chiseled toe and elastic side gussets. It can be conjectured that this was Tuczek’s legacy as there is little to compare with the dramatic lasting, the intricate detailing, and the painstaking construction of the Tuczek shoe. But finally it is the overall effect of the design, the harmony of decoration and sculptural form that distinguishes this shoemaker. There is very little to be found from the last half century that possesses the stylistic boldness or charm of this present pair."

I consider Mr. Nikolaus Tuzcek, The "Leonardo Da Vinci" of Bespoke shoemaking, the Grandmaster of all masters, the sculptor above all, a Man that has inspired so many bespoke shoemakers and keeps doing so with his creations which are over a half century or more old in design and style. Mr. Tuczek's creations, are one of a kind and so was the man.

The art works I have seen from Mr.Tuzcek's hand, are quite exceptional, unique, artistic by design, harmonious, innovative and ground breaking. 

The man, the name has become a legend within bespoke shoemaking. In honour of Mr. Nikolaus Tuzcek.

The famous Tuzcek chisel toe

The insole of a Lady's shoe

 The Lady shoe itself

 Brogue slip-ons

 The insole labels from different periods in London 

 The Full Brogue oxford

 Wholecut Adelaide in blue suede

 A monk in suede

A Semi brogue

 A spectator (1)

 Full brogue side gusset with false laces in Lizard

Spectator (2)

Crocodile side gusset

Full brogue in  brown

Lizard Full brogue side gusset slip-on

 Two tier brown Derby

Photos sourced from The Centipede and Engrandepompe