GJ Cleverley - Punched full brogue side gussets with faux laces

The beauty of going bespoke, the design, pattern, leather, last, colour, brogueing or punching, inner lining and more. As I have said before going into the process of bespoke, be it a suit, coat, shoes and overcoat or more it is not just purchasing but a process of commissioning something that will last for many years. For the day I have sampled a favourite shoe of mine, a side gusset with faux laces from GJ Cleverley. 
Now let us a take a full brogue, strip it off (away with the brogue stitchings), just leave the punching, then add the faux laces in a darker colour than the shoe, pinched it up with the GJ Cleverley square chisel toe and made from the Whiskey calf hide and then dash it up with side gussets on both sides. Oh ---what do we have? A full brogue (punched) no stitchings to distract the eye from the punching, add side gussets and with faux laces, so elegant, simple, yet very refined and classic.
So English, rather so GJ Cleverley's(que) and not within 10 000 Km's will you see something similar. Oh if my pocket was deep enough, I could relieve some of the heavy burden from my pocket and make the Cleverley's cash box a lot heavier.

Bespoke GJ Cleverley full brogue (no stitchings) punched side gusset with faux laces.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverly

The Ultimate Bespoke Shoemaker Nikolaus Tuczek

The Rolls Royce, the Leornado Da Vinci of shoemaking, Nikolaus Tuczek Ltd were boot and shoe makers who traded from 1853-1970. The company was taken over by John Lobb in 1970.

Quote From Classic shoes for men : "The late, lamented firm of Tuczek of #17 Clifford Street, W1, bespoke society shoemaker, is a legend in the trade among historians and collectors. The importance of this master is only confirmed by the fact that George Cleverley, considered by some to be the finest shoemaker of the late 20th century, began his career with Nikolaus Tuczek in 1920 and remained with the firm 38 years before opening his own workshop. Tuczek’s designs are exceptionally sleek and most often feature his characteristic chiseled toe and elastic side gussets. It can be conjectured that this was Tuczek’s legacy as there is little to compare with the dramatic lasting, the intricate detailing, and the painstaking construction of the Tuczek shoe. But finally it is the overall effect of the design, the harmony of decoration and sculptural form that distinguishes this shoemaker. There is very little to be found from the last half century that possesses the stylistic boldness or charm of this present pair."

I consider Mr. Nikolaus Tuzcek, The "Leonardo Da Vinci" of Bespoke shoemaking, the Grandmaster of all masters, the sculptor above all, a Man that has inspired so many bespoke shoemakers and keeps doing so with his creations which are over a half century or more old in design and style. Mr. Tuczek's creations, are one of a kind and so was the man.

The art works I have seen from Mr.Tuzcek's hand, are quite exceptional, unique, artistic by design, harmonious, innovative and ground breaking. 

The man, the name has become a legend within bespoke shoemaking. In honour of Mr. Nikolaus Tuzcek.

The famous Tuzcek chisel toe

The insole of a Lady's shoe

 The Lady shoe itself

 Brogue slip-ons

 The insole labels from different periods in London 

 The Full Brogue oxford

 Wholecut Adelaide in blue suede

 A monk in suede

A Semi brogue

 A spectator (1)

 Full brogue side gusset with false laces in Lizard

Spectator (2)

Crocodile side gusset

Full brogue in  brown

Lizard Full brogue side gusset slip-on

 Two tier brown Derby

Photos sourced from The Centipede and Engrandepompe