Habemus Papam Franciscum - ditches red shoes

Almost a week ago the largest Christian society (Catholics) had a new pontiff elected. The new Pope is Pope Francis born Jorge Mario Bergoglio (1936), elected 13th March 2013. Pope Francis a native of Argentina, Buenos Aires, son of Italian descendants and the 266th and current Pope. If I am not wrong I think the first non European subject to be elected Pope in a 1000 years of the Roman Catholic Church's history.

Now this blog is not about religion but about men's classic shoes, clothing and traditions of men's wear, now some may ask what has this to do with the newly elected Pope? Yes....as the title indicates, the newly elected Pope Francis was in black shoes instead of the red Papal loafers worn by his predecessor Pope Benedict XVI. Hopefully Pope Francis will also keep the traditional Papal footwear as we move into the future. 
Well, I hope he was wearing Gammarreli socks, just kidding.

Pope Francis in black normal shoes.

Pope Francis striding in his black shoes

Pope Francis arriving at the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica in Rome

As we all know and are aware of the red Papal loafers were preferred by Pope Benedict XVI. It said that traditionally the Popes wore red coloured slippers for outdoor usage and must not be confused with the Papal indoor slippers or Episcopal sandals.

Pope Benedict XVI red outdoor loafers/shoes

 Episcopal sandals in gold

 Pope Pius VII in red Papal indoor shoes

Pictures sourced from Daily Telegraph, Angel Queen, The Star ,NY Daily news and Wiki

Max Of Malmo - Colours and patterns in harmony

I have earlier used photos of Mr. Max Söderberg (of Malmö) sourced from other places. 
I have earlier mentioned Mr. Söderberg here and here. Now I have to admit that I am intrigued each time I have an encounter with Mr. Max Söderberg (a makeup artist) by the way he sets the stage for his clothing and his overall look is always very pleasing to the eye. Well ....... to my eye. 
Mr. Max Söderberg is always very well dressed and he has a touch of paying attention to the little details of his set of clothing and accessories.

Yesterday, I took my Nikon D600 for it's virgin voyage and ended up at the shop where Mr. Max Söderberg spends some hours helping and attending to customers from time to time. Unfortunately Mr. Söderberg was closing the shop and about to catch a train heading Northwards towards Stockholm, so I had little than three to four seconds to catch the below frames of Mr. Max of Malmö. I hope you (Mr. Söderberg) will approve and consent  with the below. Until next we meet again.

Below Mr. Max Söderberg of Malmö, in a double breasted mid grey with a large brown overcheck flannel suiting, checked shirting in light very light blue, a brownish rusty coloured tie, with hint of golden pattern, a paisley pocket square and horn glasses. The outfit is sober and perfect. Please take note of the little details such as colour of the suit jacket buttons complimenting the gold in the tie and in harmony with the hand held horn glasses. The basic colour of the tie harmonising with the paisley pocket square. Less talk enjoy the photo.

Below Mr. Max Söderburgh sideways, one can see that his hair has a hint of the same colour as the buttons on the jacket, horned glasses and bracelets on the hand. Very well done. So sober, the whole set is also appropriate even in the worst conservative environments. 

The last details of the attire the trouser length and the double monks paired with grey socks in a darker shade than the grey in the trousers but not darker than the brown monks.

All photos sourced from myself.

The 337 Last in various designs

Spring is supposed to be here but is it still very cold and according to the weather forecast, the Winter will still have a grip on us for another week or so. Last weekend and partially this weekend I was polishing my shoes and getting the Winter stock ready for storage and the Spring/Summer stock to be taken out. To my surprise I realised that I have a number of shoes on the 337 last (Crockett & Jones) from three different English shoemakers. The 337 Last is a soft square chisel toe from the Crockett & Jones Hand grade collection.

So I had to do a line up of these shoes, all in the 337 last which was designed by Master Dimitri Gomez for Crockett and Jones. However GJ Cleverley & WS Foster are producing shoes based on the 337 last.  

The 337 Last "usual suspect" line up. From the top, a semi brogue punched cap toe in brown buckskin suede, from GJ Cleverley. Black punched cap toe side gusset ("Jack") from GJ Cleverley. Antique chestnut punched cap toe oxford ("Westbury") from WS Foster and Son. Black stitched cap toe oxford ("Audley") from Crockett and Jones, burgundy punched cap toe side gusset ("Jack") from GJ Cleverley and lastly tan full brogue oxford ("Clifford") from Crockett & Jones. You may remember the Clifford from here.

Not included in the 337 line up below is the "Avebury" Balmoral boot from CJ and the "Thornham" full brogue from WS Foster both in antique chestnut.

 All photos sourced from myself.

Miss Twiggy in a GJ Cleverley bespoke ladies spectator

It is almost a week ago the International Women's day was celebrated. For the given day I sampled a bespoke spectator made for a lady by GJ Cleverley house. As you know it is very seldom you see ladies shoes from this London based bespoke shoemaker house. That is why I wanted to share the below photo with you.

Lesley Lawson known as Miss Twiggy (because of her thin built), British actress and singer in a GJ Cleverley bespoke full brogue brown and white spectator. A lovely shoe.

Photo sourced from the Internet

HRH Prince Charles at Crockett and Jones 2013

Earlier in the year His Royal Highness Prince Charles paid a royal visit to Northampton, England the heart of English shoe industry and visited the Crockett and Jones shoe company. 
What I understand from the press is that HRH Prince Charles was fitted on the Belgrave (pictured below) which is on the 337 Last, however modified to fit his taste and liking. 
If I have correctly observed HRH Prince Charles prefers the more rounded toe for his Oxford shoes, probably the reason for the modification. The Belgrave is on the 337 last which is soft squared and chiseled, perhaps it was a bit too fashion forward for HRH. 
My favourite last from C and J as a matter of fact.

 The Belgrave on the 337 last after a good treatment. Two below pictures sourced from Ethandesu blog. Nice shine done by Ethan.

HRH Prince Charles exchanging a word or two with Northampton dignitaries. Note that HRH Prince Charles is wearing a double breasted POW (Prince of Wales suit) paired with a pocket square and the obligatory tie.  The colour combination of the suit, shirt and pocket square are in perfect harmony. No wonder HRH has been several times nominated England's best dressed man.

 HRH Prince Charles chatting with the shoemakers at Crockett and Jones.

Photos sourced from Crockett and Jones, and Ethandesu blog

Dinner Suits at the 2013 Oscar ceremony

A week ago the traditional yearly Oscar nominations took place and I was surprised by the breaking of the rules of evening wear by some of the gents attending the ceremony. I observed lots of blue dinner suits and some very odd pairing of the dinner suit with very untraditional footwear. I am not sure that this "breaking of the rules" is appropriate. Well, less talk and let the pictures talk for themselves.

Mr. Daniel Radcliffe very well dressed for the evening, dinner suit paired with the mandatory cummerbund if not using a waistcoat for a single breasted dinner suit. I am however missing a pocket square on the jacket pocket. Otherwise well done young man.

 Oscar winner actor Mr. Daniel Day-Lewis in a blue single breasted dinner suit, a pocket square and looking best, however he is not wearing patent oxfords, Opera pumps nor Albert slippers, but.....loafers. Now I am 100 percent certain that loafers are not formal footwear nor are they appropriate with a dinner suiting. He was not the only gent mind you.

 Oscar winner actor Mr. Michael Douglas looking good in his dinner suiting, though the traditional rules of dinner suiting wear are broken, just as Daniel Day-Lewis above, by pairing the dinner suiting with loafers

 Oscar winner actor Mr. Dustin Hoffman, opted for a tie instead of a butterfly. Note the length of the trousers a tad long. Hmmm... any local tailor could have fixed the length in a giffy.

Mr. Jamie Fox opted for a very untraditional colour dinner suiting, paired with a black shirt. Hmmm......what is happening?

Is this associated with glamour, Oscars, Hollywood, sartorial men's evening wear? Well not sure, are you? The look is ...what can I say...very interesting.

Mr. Chris Tucker also in a blueish shade single breasted dinner jacket, mandatory bow tie. However Mr. Tucker should have known that a one button jacket, must be buttoned at all times, unless getting sited. Mr. Tucker where is the cummerbund?

Photos sources from Yahoo Movies Gallery

Pitti 2013 as seen by the Journal of Style of Copenhagen

Dear Readers, followers, blog friends and Shoe lovers/Aristocats,

Profound apologies that I was away for some time and left a blog vacuum in the mean time, it was not my intent, but I am here again and will try to update you on a regular base.

The below article was planned to be released in January 2013, but.... so hope you will forgive me for coming with "stale" inspiring Winter news.  

I was glad the other day when I realised that The Journal of Style (Mr. Torsten Grünwald) has made observations of what he saw at Pitti 2013. Surprisingly he focused on the Overcoats worn as capes and he did observe that the monks were still "in". Mr. Grünwald's  observations and photos from Pitti 2013 are very sober and his comments well articulated. Read Pitti Uomo Wear the overcoat as a cape by Mr. Torsten Grünwald from Denmark.

Overcoats at Pitti 2013 as seen by The Journal of Style, very good looking overcoats and some are very impressive indeed.

From The Journal of Style I have sampled only two - the caped overcoat and a double breasted navy classical coat.

Caped Overcoat with fur collar, tartan trousers, a grey odd two button jacket with concealed/covered buttons. White shirt and a greenish wool/cashmere tie. Very majestic looking coat. Cool looking gent with a well groomed beard in the making.

A double breasted navy blue overcoat, light grey 6-4 flannel double breasted suit and monk shoes. White shirt with a navy blue silk tie, perhaps grenadine, not sure. The coat looks great worn as a cape. On the below overcoat I miss the breast pocket for the pocket square. Otherwise a good looking overcoat worn with dignity and grace.

All photos sourced from The Journal of Style by Mr. Torsten Grünwald from Denmark.