John Lobb's shoes in Museum calf hide

After visiting Master Vass Laszlo's establishment in Buda-Pest, I could not get the John Lobb "Museum Calf" hide out of my head. So I looked around to find the different shoes made by John Lobb in this special antiqued hide. Now I am more than overwhelmed with the antiquing of the hide from the tannery directly. The hide has a almost interesting natural patina that is so beautiful, regardless the colour (be it Parisian, Plum etc). So I am even more anxious to see the outcome of my commissioned boot  from The Vass establishment in Hungary. The hide will be from Ilcea tannery in Italy from the Radica offering.

All good things come in due time, so I am very patient. Enjoy the John Lobb renditions in "Museum calf" and have a pleasant weekend.

Oxford Boot in Museum calf (both)

Chelsea Boot in Museum calf (left)

Double monk in Museum calf (right)

 Punched cap toe Oxford in Museum calf

 Full brogue (austerity brogue) in Museum calf

Photos sourced from Style Forum and Leather Soul Hawaii

John Lobb - bespoke -Oxford cap toe with brogue vamp

The venerable London based bespoke shoe and bootmaker John Lobb is well known around the world for their shoes, a symbol of classical English shoes, a trademark of the connoisseur, the ultimate shoe lover, so stylish, elegant and timeless. I have been going through their on-line catalogue of bespoke shoes and boots and I recall stopping a few times at the below depicted Oxford laced shoe with a cap toe and a brogue (perforated vamp) no heel counter perforation. 
In my opinion this is the most beautiful rendition of a half brogue Oxford laced shoe with a punched cap toe. Simple, elegant and timeless. The mahogany / cognac colour adds sophistication to it. I do not know many houses that carry this shoe, but it is in my humble opinion a beauty. The cap toe is not darkened as expected but lighter in  colour than the rest of the shoe. Simple yet elegant and refined.

John Lobb's Oxford laced punched cap toe (with medallion) and a brogue vamp. Chisel square toe. 

Photos sourced from John Lobb Bootmaker

Gaziano and Girling - "Cliffe" in black suede

 I have for Summer inspirations sampled a Gaziano and Girling creation named "Cliffe" from the Deco Line. Cliffe is a traditional, classic laced Oxford with a punch cap toe. The beauty of this pair lies in the material and colour chosen to make it. I see shades of brown suede on Oxford laced shoes, never have I encountered a black or navy suede Oxford laced shoe. That is the reason for sharing these beauties with you. Hope you enjoy them as I do.

Cliffe in black suede by G&G

Photos sourced from Bespoke England

The 337 Last in various designs

Spring is supposed to be here but is it still very cold and according to the weather forecast, the Winter will still have a grip on us for another week or so. Last weekend and partially this weekend I was polishing my shoes and getting the Winter stock ready for storage and the Spring/Summer stock to be taken out. To my surprise I realised that I have a number of shoes on the 337 last (Crockett & Jones) from three different English shoemakers. The 337 Last is a soft square chisel toe from the Crockett & Jones Hand grade collection.

So I had to do a line up of these shoes, all in the 337 last which was designed by Master Dimitri Gomez for Crockett and Jones. However GJ Cleverley & WS Foster are producing shoes based on the 337 last.  

The 337 Last "usual suspect" line up. From the top, a semi brogue punched cap toe in brown buckskin suede, from GJ Cleverley. Black punched cap toe side gusset ("Jack") from GJ Cleverley. Antique chestnut punched cap toe oxford ("Westbury") from WS Foster and Son. Black stitched cap toe oxford ("Audley") from Crockett and Jones, burgundy punched cap toe side gusset ("Jack") from GJ Cleverley and lastly tan full brogue oxford ("Clifford") from Crockett & Jones. You may remember the Clifford from here.

Not included in the 337 line up below is the "Avebury" Balmoral boot from CJ and the "Thornham" full brogue from WS Foster both in antique chestnut.

 All photos sourced from myself.

HRH Prince Charles at Crockett and Jones 2013

Earlier in the year His Royal Highness Prince Charles paid a royal visit to Northampton, England the heart of English shoe industry and visited the Crockett and Jones shoe company. 
What I understand from the press is that HRH Prince Charles was fitted on the Belgrave (pictured below) which is on the 337 Last, however modified to fit his taste and liking. 
If I have correctly observed HRH Prince Charles prefers the more rounded toe for his Oxford shoes, probably the reason for the modification. The Belgrave is on the 337 last which is soft squared and chiseled, perhaps it was a bit too fashion forward for HRH. 
My favourite last from C and J as a matter of fact.

 The Belgrave on the 337 last after a good treatment. Two below pictures sourced from Ethandesu blog. Nice shine done by Ethan.

HRH Prince Charles exchanging a word or two with Northampton dignitaries. Note that HRH Prince Charles is wearing a double breasted POW (Prince of Wales suit) paired with a pocket square and the obligatory tie.  The colour combination of the suit, shirt and pocket square are in perfect harmony. No wonder HRH has been several times nominated England's best dressed man.

 HRH Prince Charles chatting with the shoemakers at Crockett and Jones.

Photos sourced from Crockett and Jones, and Ethandesu blog

Yohei Fukuda shoes for the day

I am not sure, but I am in the believe that Japan as a country has more and still produces some of the talented bespoke shoemakers in the World. I have earlier mentioned Master Yohei Fukuda on this blog, but each time I look at his shoe creations then I get this itchy "wanting" to own a few of these work of art. Review and judge and you will understand why.

Master Yohei Fukuda's usual suspect line up.

From L to R ( A black stitched cap toe oxford, A tan quarter brogue oxford with a punched cap toe and a medallion, burgundy stitched Balmoral(galosh) oxford with plain toe, black wing tip brogued balmoral (galosh), a whiskey coloured three tier Derby and oxblood full brogue oxford. Yes, nice colours and polishing too. 
I would really want to own all of the six pairs, as all are well made, balanced, traditional and classical men's shoes, I could never go wrong. All bear my favourite signature of WS Foster/GJ Cleverley style, chisel square toe. The colouring...just makes you green with envy.

Below antique chestnut stitched Balmoral (galosh) with a punched cap toe, chisel square toe. Better can not be. Now I happen to own a similar creation from G&G but in a round toe(GG06), which I can not come to terms with even after four years, but my GG is more like the black galosh balmoral shoe though without the medallion on the cap toe. 

A black Balmoral (punched galosh) with a punched cap toe and a medallion, chisel square toe. Fantastic. Lovely shoe, elegant, timeless.

 Wing tip Balmoral (galosh) in Black and caramel tan. Look at the colouring of the caramel. My mouth is watering. I will have to work hard for many years to own any of these creations. Superb.

Photos sourced from Master Yohei Fukuda.

Hidden gems from Style Forum 2012 - Mr. Antonio25

It was some time since I last visited Style forum and as I was browsing through the shoe threads and forums when I came across a gent named Antonio25. According to Mr. Antonio25, he has worked for Kiton and Rubinacci, which are both Italian houses offering high-end men's clothing and shoes.  As I was reading through the "shoe damage report" thread, I noted that Mr. Antonio25 showed the below depicted well made shoes each with a very brilliant patina that brought the individual pair to higher grounds of admiration. To my surprise, Mr. Antonio was offering these hand made shoes, patina and all, for less than 500 Euros per pair minus postage and handling. I lost my jaw for a second or two. Why? Hmmm....look at them, these shoes shows that the maker has respect for the craft of bespoke shoemaking, is paying attention to the details, and not to mention that he has also mastered the art of the patina. A discipline for itself.
My favourites: the boot and the punched whole cut oxford. I think Mr. Antonio is just teasing my appetite and I am looking forward to the other dishes to be offered. So in short ....I am a very hungry man and waiting for a reply from Mr. Antonio25. More news on these beauties......and thanks Mr. Antonio25 for sharing these beauties with us at Style forum.

Strapped loafer with a nice shine

 Oxford laced boot with an amazing patina in tan and dark brown, I love the rendition of this boot and colouring.

 A beautiful loafer with a darkened toe

 Side laced oxford in a very beautiful red and black patina. I imagine this patina on a Chelsea boot, wonderful.

 A rendition of a wing tipped oxford in beautiful tan and light brown patina

 A Berlutisque rendition of a stitched apron oxford, the patina is breath taking

 A punched cap toe with a medallion on a burgundy whole cut oxford. Classy.

Photos sourced from Style forum

For today - Aubercy shoes

For the day I have picked up some shoe creations from the Aubercy house (France). A family operation since 1935. The company produces Goodyear welted and blake constructed shoes, which are offered in ready to wear or made to measure. Their shoes are well designed, classical, elegant and some come with a beautiful patina and glacage as they are French made. 

Enjoy the pictures.

A very interesting and unusual two toned balmoral oxford. Beautiful choice of colours for the suede and calf leather combination. The patina is amazing.

Cross strapped double monk (never seen this design before), lovely.

 Another double monk

A classical single black monk

The classical punched cap toe oxford with a rounded toe last

Another version of the classical punched cap toe oxford

A two toned button balmoral boot

 Close up of the buttoned balmoral boot

 A whole cut oxford with very nice patina 

Photos sourced from: Hype means everything