GJ Cleverley - The Whole cut oxford

For the day I have sampled an elegant shoe in black, a classic whole cut Oxford with a stitched cap toe and seamless from the GJ Cleverley establishment. My understanding is that whole cuts, whether be oxfords or loafers are difficult to make, as one has to deal with one single piece of hide and get it correct from start. I suppose that is the challenge for any shoe artisan.
The below straight cap toe has two rows of very close stitchings and it is seamless at the back, because as said, it is made of one single piece of leather.

The stitched cap toe whole cut Oxford as renditioned by GJ Cleverley, a beauty, a classic, a formal shoe and timeless.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

Masculine silhouette for a lady - and very elegant

As a gent, I tend to focus on men's clothing and how we pull the elegant, classic and timeless look for ourselves and to the on lookers. From time to time I encounter photos or see ladies in attire that is for a masculine look (men), however when they add a feminine dash and splash to the masculine silhouette, it is then softened up, fit for a lady, yet masculine. The Lady below pulls the look very elegantly and stylish. Worth an inspiration. Enjoy your Easter.

The Lady below, assembles grey, blue and lavender with such delicacy and refinement. A jacket in grey with a hint of lavender with turn up sleeves, a  matching waistcoat, a light blue shirt and lavender paisley trousers. She pairs the attire with a bow tie which hints lavender and white in pattern, though darker than the lavender colour of the trousers. The pocket square on the jacket has a dash of light blue, fawn (off white) colouring and a lavender colour that matches the colour of the buttons of the jacket and waistcoat. 

She closes the whole attire with a pair of leather gloves in a darker shade of grey than the jacket and waistcoat. Only a feminine touch can pull this look on a masculine attire. So adorable feminine yet masculine. 

 The Lady on the picture pulls the attire in shades of green, the trousers with a Paisley pattern, a darker green coat, tweed I suppose, and then there is a hint of lime green sweater under the jacket. She is holding/carrying a bag which is made of Ostrich hide in light tan colour and finishes (almost) the touch with a whole cut oxford which is either mahogany or cognac in colour. On the handle bar of the bag - a scarf tied around with orange and light grey colours. The orange in the scarf is in harmony with the colour of the shoes and bag. A feminine touch on a masculine attire. Simply great!

Photos sourced from Bespoke Makers

Master Ivan The Shoe Patina Artist

For the day I have sampled some amazing colouring from Master bespoke shoe and boot maker and patina artist Master Ivan Crivellaro, whom I have mentioned here. When looking and admiring these creations, I often think would I ever wear them or just have a glass display were I would display them and admire them. Walking in these shoes would be "blasphemous" destroying the art on these creations. Surely lots of passion, artistry and man hours has been invested to create them. So lovely, words can not describe them, let the photos speak loud & clear.

Three tier Oxford in light blue and burgundish cap toe with side bones & skull embroidery and pinkish piping. Just lovely. 

 A whole cut tan Oxford with darkened cap toe and a beautiful red and black sole in art. Would you walk and destroy this lovely piece of sole work?  

Photos sourced from Master Ivan's Face Book profile

Justin FitzPatrick - Shoes

Today at last, I decided to do a blog on Mr. Justin FitzPatrick aka "The Shoe Snob", an American young gent, shoe lover and a "shoe snob", who blogs about shoes and is a bespoke shoemaker too. What is fascinating about Mr. Fitzpatrick is the fact that he packed his belongings from the USA and headed for Europe to learn the bread and craft of shoemaking from start to end, driven by the passion and love of quality shoes. He is almost reaching his goal and I wish him the best of luck in entering this lovely art of shoemaking.

I have to admit that "The Shoe Snob" is very knowledgeable about the shoe industry and very unbiased when reviewing and commenting about shoes on his blog. He has touched down on almost "all" bespoke shoemakers around the globe and shoe companies that offer ready to wear shoes, it be from unknown Central European shoemakers or new comers from Far East and Europe. He has a hawk's eye when it comes to details of the shoe, be it the last, design, leather etc. I personally appreciate his insight knowledge about shoes. Well no more tales, look at the creations and judge yourself.

I have sampled a few of "The Shoe Snob's" creations which will be available during the course of this year. Please admire some of his excellent creations.

The "Shoe Snob" Master Justin FitzPatrick in person, wearing a Gieves and Hawkes Navy double breasted overcoat, paired with whole cut loafers from his collection. I will later come back to the Gieves and Hawkes overcoat, as I have acquired one and I will do a review on this same coat.

 The Shoe Snob logo, very simple and appealing to me. It says it all.

Sample of "The Usual suspects line up", boots, oxfords, derby's, slip-ons.

A two toned Balmoral oxford boot, very cool and interesting combination of colours.

A wing tipped punched Whole cut oxford without gimping

The details of the punching, very nicely done.

A whole cut loafer with a medallion

 Side view of the loafer

A wing tipped saddle oxford, very interesting design, sober, elegant, well proportioned, nice shoe.

 Details of the wing tip saddle shoe

All photos sourced from Justin FitzPatrick.

Stefano Bemer - Bespoke boot and shoemaker passed away

It was by accident that I was made aware (by Ivan Crivellaro bespoke boot and shoemaker) that master bespoke boot and shoemaker Mr. Stefano Bemer passed away on the 28th July 2012. I did not know Mr. Bemer in person, but as a shoe lover, I believe that the bespoke shoemaking industry has lost an individual who has been a mentor to many shoe artisans and he has designed very interesting, elegant shoes.


My profound sympathies to his family and those who knew him in person. May the master shoemaker from Firenze rest in peace.

 A whole cut oxford made of crocodile

 A quarter brogue oxford 

 A wing tip brogued single monk

 A suede tassel loafer

All photos sourced from Mr. Stefano Bemer's site.

For today - Aubercy shoes

For the day I have picked up some shoe creations from the Aubercy house (France). A family operation since 1935. The company produces Goodyear welted and blake constructed shoes, which are offered in ready to wear or made to measure. Their shoes are well designed, classical, elegant and some come with a beautiful patina and glacage as they are French made. 

Enjoy the pictures.

A very interesting and unusual two toned balmoral oxford. Beautiful choice of colours for the suede and calf leather combination. The patina is amazing.

Cross strapped double monk (never seen this design before), lovely.

 Another double monk

A classical single black monk

The classical punched cap toe oxford with a rounded toe last

Another version of the classical punched cap toe oxford

A two toned button balmoral boot

 Close up of the buttoned balmoral boot

 A whole cut oxford with very nice patina 

Photos sourced from: Hype means everything

Formal Shoes for a Gent

It seems I am in collision with some Gents regarding the ultimate formal shoes for weddings, black tie arrangements, the Opera or and Theatre. Not many men wear Opera pumps today, but many will settle for the patent leather shoes for formal wear, which is appropriate and acceptable. 
When commissioning formal shoes for weddings, Opera, Theatre or even black tie events, then I would suggest having a shoe that can be re-used many a times, such as the earlier (blog) mentioned black whole cut oxford. When silk ribbon laces are added to the shoe, then it is a very formal shoe for the black tie event, wedding, Theatre and or Opera. 

Below is a bespoke pump or Opera shoes from Carreducker. No doubt this is the Ultimate evening shoe for black tie event, wedding or Opera.

The pump paired with silk stockings. Nothing beats that.

Now the above will only be used mainly for the aforementioned events and indoors, as the construction of the shoe is very light.  Personally I am not much for patent leathered shoes, but many Gents do own patent leathered shoes for formal occasions, so why not pair the patent leather with silk ribbon laces to give that little pinch of spicing. 

Now, I mention the black whole cut oxford as the ultimate formal shoe especially when paired with silk ribbon laces. If I had to own and only have one essential pair of shoes, I would opt for a black whole cut oxford, because it can be used for almost any occasion, from formal to informal. 
On the other hand, the pump and the patent leather shoes can only be used for the evenings, weddings, black tie assemble, theatre and or Opera. 
So why not have a shoe that is versatile and can be reused depending on the occasion. 
Imagine adding a silk ribbon lace to the below whole cut. Ultimate wow.....for the Opera, Theatre, wedding, black tie event. Same shoe with normal laces becomes just an oxford for business.

Below a black whole cut by Gaziano & Girling from the Deco range.

Pictures sourced from Carreducker, Gaziano & Girling and the Internet.

Japanese Bespoke Shoemaker (Clematis Ginza)

On my journey of finding more bespoke shoemakers, I found Clematis Ginza, another Japanese Bespoke shoemaker. At first I thought it was about the plant "Clematis", could not see any connection to shoemaking.
From the looks Clematis-Ginza produces  well designed, elegant and stylish shoes that are timeless and classic. The shoes are European inspired, probably English shoemakers have left their mark on Clematis-Ginza, but I maybe mistaken. Anyway...
Look at the below shoes and judge for yourself.

Two toned balmoral boot

 Brogued side gusset

 Brogued side gusset sole

 Whole cut side gusset in suede

 Two toned strapped loafer

 Whole cut oxford 

 Winged full brogue

 Sole of the winged full brogue

All pictures sourced from Clematis Ginza