Saskia Wittmer bespoke shoes - Florence

The men's bespoke shoe industry (artisanship) is mostly dominated by men, all most in all continents (Europe, The Americas, The United Kingdom and Japan). However that does not mean and say that there are no women in this industry. Most famous and known is Madame Olga Berluti from Berluti, then we have Madame Deborah Carré from the duo CarreDucker based in England (the other member being James Ducker), Sweden 
has two ladies (Carina & Asa) in the shoemaking field. WS Foster & Son has currently Emma and Emiko, the latter from Japan, maybe in the near future both will venture into their own brand of bespoke shoemaking. 

When thinking of Florence in regards to bespoke shoemaking, names like Hidetaka Fukaja, late Stefano Bemer, Antonio Mannina and Roberto Ugolini comes to mind, now add Madame Saskia to the list. Madame Saskia Wittmer,  a Berlin born, moved to Florence and a student of late Stefano Bemer, runs the Saskia house in Florence (Italy).

Madame Saskia window and logo display in Florence (Italy)

A beautiful rendition of a co-respondent full brogue in brown and white

A full brogue Oxford in antiques polishing

A quarter brogue Oxford with a cap toe medallion

A classical black Oxford with a punched cap toe

A strapped loafer in exotic hide and the apron in white linen

Display 

A whole cut Oxford in black calf hide 

A Balmoral wing tip Oxford in calf and suede

Photos sourced from MerciMeLord, News about shoes and Necessities

Gaziano and Girling - two samples of bespoke shoes

Northampton based Gaziano and Girling, have this "little" tendency of pulling some amazing rabbits from the magic bag of shoes. No wonder they are are so popular amongst the new generation of gents commissioning bespoke shoes/boots.

Below a wing tipped whole cut Adelaide laced Oxford in dark antiqued oak on the TG73 chisel last. Simple, elegant, classic and timeless shoe with a modern twist.

 A three tier Derby in calf and lizard hides with a medallion on the cap toe, round last DG70. Very cool Derby shoe and very sober medallion. Ouch....wish my treasurer box was unlimited. 

Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

For today - Masaru Okuyama creations

For the day I have sampled Master Masaru Okuyama creations. Master Okuyama  learned the bread and craft of shoemaking from Master Chihiro Yamaguchi (Guild of Crafts). Master Okuyama opened his bespoke workshop in 2008.  

Enjoy the creations and have a pleasant weekend. 

A black whole cut Oxford, round toe last

Classical stitched cap toe Oxford in grained leather, square last

Side gusset, round last

The Last line up

 Black side gusset with medallion on toe, chisel square last

 Single strapped monk, round last

 Two tier Derby, chisel last

Brogue Derby, chisel last

Norwegian split toe Derby

The sole of Master Okuyama shoes

Photos sourced from Master Masaru Okuyama

Guild of Crafts - Japan

Guild of Crafts, Asakusa (Japan) is one of the bespoke shoemaking houses which needs to be mentioned when naming the bespoke shoe industry of Japan. The Guild was established in 1996 in Asakusa, the heart of Japanese shoemaking region, by master shoemaker Chihiro Yamaguchi. 

In 1999, The Guild founded "Saruwaka Footwear College" and in 2006 the Guild opened flag shops in Ginza and Tokyo offering bespoke and made to order foot wear.

Enjoy and have a pleasant weekend.

Master Chihiro Yamaguchi in person

The Guild works with classical shoe styles, then add a modern twist to some of the creations whilst paying great respect, attention to the details, add massive passion and dedication to the art of shoemaking.  The results can be seen below at the depicted creations. 

Very distinctive side strapped single monk, I like the design of this monk. It is a monk I would like to add to my footwear arsenal.

A two toned Balmoral boot with a modern twist, stitched cap toe, chisel square toe last

 A Spat boot in two tones, rounded last

Diamond peaked cap toe side gusset in three tones

Peaked cap toe, suede side gusset...hmmmm....

Inner side laced oxford with a monogram

Seamless whole cut Oxford

 Another whole cut Oxford 

Classical stitched cap toe Oxford with darkened cap toe, square chisel last

A U winged Adelaide Oxford with a medallion, chisel square toe last

A very interesting hide samples, I think Ostrich leg and calf leather Oxford with very interesting brogue on the cap toe, round toe last.

Women's shoe designs by the Guild.

 A sports car shoe in pure leather, single tier. 

Photos sourced from Guild of Crafts and Diane Pernet Typepad

Koji Suzuki aka Spigola - shoe creations

Master Koji Suzuki aka "Spigola", is the better known of the Japanese bespoke shoemakers, and as I am trotting on the theme of Japanese bespoke shoemakers, he has to be mentioned and included. I consider Master Spigola a very talented gent and his creations can attribute to that. No wonder there is a waiting list of up to a year to get a pair made from him. From Master Suzuki aka Spigola, I have sampled a few creations depicted below. Enjoy.

Black "Lazy Man's shoe" side gusset with false laces and a medallion on the cap toe

Stingray whole cut on the making

Black side laced stitched cap toe

Crocodile loafer in brown

 Master Koji Suzuki aka Spigola at work

Photos samples from Image Shack US and Bespoke Makers