Saskia Wittmer bespoke shoes - Florence

The men's bespoke shoe industry (artisanship) is mostly dominated by men, all most in all continents (Europe, The Americas, The United Kingdom and Japan). However that does not mean and say that there are no women in this industry. Most famous and known is Madame Olga Berluti from Berluti, then we have Madame Deborah Carré from the duo CarreDucker based in England (the other member being James Ducker), Sweden 
has two ladies (Carina & Asa) in the shoemaking field. WS Foster & Son has currently Emma and Emiko, the latter from Japan, maybe in the near future both will venture into their own brand of bespoke shoemaking. 

When thinking of Florence in regards to bespoke shoemaking, names like Hidetaka Fukaja, late Stefano Bemer, Antonio Mannina and Roberto Ugolini comes to mind, now add Madame Saskia to the list. Madame Saskia Wittmer,  a Berlin born, moved to Florence and a student of late Stefano Bemer, runs the Saskia house in Florence (Italy).

Madame Saskia window and logo display in Florence (Italy)

A beautiful rendition of a co-respondent full brogue in brown and white

A full brogue Oxford in antiques polishing

A quarter brogue Oxford with a cap toe medallion

A classical black Oxford with a punched cap toe

A strapped loafer in exotic hide and the apron in white linen

Display 

A whole cut Oxford in black calf hide 

A Balmoral wing tip Oxford in calf and suede

Photos sourced from MerciMeLord, News about shoes and Necessities

Saion - creations for the day

Today I have picked up a few creations from Saion, a Japanese bespoke shoemaker, who tends to take the classics and give them a dash and spicy splash of a modern twist and get a great big bang. Take a note on the first shoe, a brogue, adelaide, but then the colour. Wow! Move on and look at the third pair, the Derby, simply stunning and lastly the quarter brogue in reddish. Master Saion does perform wonders. Okay, no more talking, lets look and the more we look we will be able to see. Enjoy.

Blue Adelaide Oxford. Very interesting design, colouring and pattern. The Heel!

Black stitched Balmoral oxford with stitched cap toe. Very classic.

Two tier Derby, very sleek, elegantly done. Look at the proportions of the shoe. The heel is a killer. A very different approach to renditioning a Derby. A beauty. Piece of art.

This Derby reminds me of the works of Master Tuzcek and Master Cleverley. I reckon that Baron De Rede will not mind bespeaking a pair from Master Saion.

 A quarter brogue Oxford in reddish toned colour. Hmmm.....magnificent

Photos sourced from Saion

Il Corno Blu - Japanese Bespoke shoes

As you may know by now that I have this fascination about Japanese bespoke boot and shoemakers, and I have not touched on them for quite some time. Today I have sampled a few creations by Il Corno Blu (not sure if it is a collaboration of different bespoke shoe artisans or one man's work). 

The first depicted light brown or Tan coloured quarter brogue punched captoe Oxford is from Il Corno Blu (Yutaka Seigaku), never have I seen a classic simple oxford renditioned so immaculately and perfectly as this creation from Master Yutaka Seigaku.

Bespoke quarter brogue punched Oxford laced shoe from Il Corno Blu (Yutaka Seigaku)

 Sole details of the shoe - just simple, adorable, perfect, classic and timeless

The below shoes photos all sourced from Style Forum and creations of Il Corno Blu.

A black stitched Oxford, simple, classic and elegant.

 Il Corno Blue Ready To Wear offerings, if wishes were horses, then I would be begging to ride and be a jockey on these below RTW offerings. So simple and refined yet classic and elegant. Need to pop up in Japan for a cup of tea.  

 A line up of the usual suspects from Il Corno Blu

 I am not sure what hide is the strapped loafer made of, but it is appealing to my taste, same as the tan below loafer and above the monk strap

Pictures sourced from Style Forum and The Shoe Realistic Blog and Style Forum.

Faded natural patina - WS Foster and Sons

WS Foster bespoke boot and shoemaker, made these not so basic black patina shoes. It is my understanding that the origins are from a pair of bespoke shoe which was never collected by a client and was later used as a display pair at the window. Over the years the sun had produced the fading colour and thus a natural patina was on the make. Today the same patina can be replicated for an additional charge if the client wishes so. 

Faded patina quarter brogue punched cap toe oxford with medallion on a squared chisel last

Faded patina on punched cap toe oxford on a rounded last

Faded patina on a loafer

Faded patina on a brogued wing tip monk

Faded patina on a side gusset

Pictures sourced from WS Foster and Sons and A Suitable wardrobe

Stefano Bemer - Bespoke boot and shoemaker passed away

It was by accident that I was made aware (by Ivan Crivellaro bespoke boot and shoemaker) that master bespoke boot and shoemaker Mr. Stefano Bemer passed away on the 28th July 2012. I did not know Mr. Bemer in person, but as a shoe lover, I believe that the bespoke shoemaking industry has lost an individual who has been a mentor to many shoe artisans and he has designed very interesting, elegant shoes.


My profound sympathies to his family and those who knew him in person. May the master shoemaker from Firenze rest in peace.

 A whole cut oxford made of crocodile

 A quarter brogue oxford 

 A wing tip brogued single monk

 A suede tassel loafer

All photos sourced from Mr. Stefano Bemer's site.