I am not going to be the spoiler of the 2013 Summer, but like all good things come to end at some point. Now it is  time to bring those darker coloured shoes out to welcome the Autumn, when I say out, I do mean, in a well polished, cared manner worthy a  gent. If you did not do that, please be inspired by Dandy Shoe Care. How to accomplished that?
Get inspired by Dandy Shoe Care, see depicted pair below.

Well come back Master Alexander, hope you enjoyed your vacation and thanks for once again reminding us, that well polished shoes do look great and say a more than a million words about the wearer.

A brown brogue Oxford with a punched cap toe, well polished and cared for by Dandy Shoe Care

Photo sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

Alden Norwegian Split toe limited edition

Now it is obvious The Patina designer, artist The Grand Duke of patina is back from his well earned and deserved vacation. I am not a fan of Aldens (USA) shoes, however I have two pairs of Norwegian split toe on Black cordovan and Shell 8 (more dark burgundy). When I saw this transformation from the almost nothing saying colour to the Limited Edition, I was taken back and with a good reason too. A well renditioned patina design and colouring. Well done Grand Duke Of patina.

Alden Limited Edition of a Norwegian split toe processing

Photo(s) sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

Putting it together like the Ambrosi's from Naples

I have often asked myself the question, how do the artisans (of clothing, shoes, ties etc) pull their sartorial look together? For the day, I went no further than looking into what the "worlds ultimate bespoke trouser maker" wear, not just wear but how do they pull the ultimate timeless, classical and very stylish impression. So to come with an answer I sampled the "Ambrosi look", father and son, how they do it.   

Mr. Antonio Ambrosi (Ambrosi Sr) in a blue single breasted suiting, shirt, stripped tie and oxblood Oxfords. Note no shirting showing between the trousers and the belt. The trousers drapes perfectly well even when Mr. Ambrosi is in movement.

Mr. Salvatore Ambrosi (Ambrosi Jr) in a double breasted suit with large peaked lapels, white shirt, white pocket square and a tie, paired with an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Further down we will look at the details. 

Closer look at the details of the tailoring of the jacket. The the tie maybe a Passagio Cravatte not sure, but could be

 Oh yes, blue sox and an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Cool. 

Photos sourced from Ambrosi of Napoli

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers

I have been following Salvatore Ambrosi, the Naples based bespoke trouser maker for quite some time. I have to admit that I have not yet seen or held a pair of trousers from his hands, but I have to admit that what I see it is remarkable true artisanship. What makes the Ambrosi family operation so unique, is that they are focused on a niche product, making only trousers, bespoke trousers entirely by hand for their clients. It is not a mistake that the Ambrosi's are named, the "Ultimate Bespoke Trouser makers". So in short, a pair of Ambrosi made trousers, will be the ultimate you can get within the art of bespoke trouser making. I would not mind a few pairs of trousers from the Ambrosi's. 

A pair of trousers with side adjusters ready for the client

A pair of linen lavender blue trousers with side adjusters on their way to a client

Houndstooth trousers, side adjusters ready to go

Glen Urquart cloth trousers ready to go

Glen plaid trousers with side adjusters ready 

Large Glen Plaid cloth trousers ready 

Heavy Donnegal tweed for winter ready 

Glen Plaid trousers

 Houndstooth trousers

 Tweed trousers ready

 Another pair of Houndstooth cloth trousers ready to go 

 Cigar coloured linen trousers

 Another tweed trousers ready 

 Blue linen trousers 

Glen Plaid (Grey and blue) ready to go

Swatch samples to pick from

Photos sourced from Ambrosi Napoli and Style Forum

The Italian Job - Summer looks

The Italian Job Summer looks is a collection of photos depicting Italian gents within the clothing industry of Italy. Here we can see how those who influence the everyday gent assemble their own clothing for the day. Quite inspirational, the putting together of colours, cloth, accessories  and putting it all together to make an everlasting timeless impression. Why not get inspired by these gents.

Mr. Alberto Scaccione, opted for navy blue double breasted jacket (4X2) with white buttons, collar club shirting - stripped, a tie, glasses in jacket pocket instead of a pocket square, paired with white trousers.

Peaked lapel jacket in dark blue colour, sky shirt and a light trousers, paired with suede tassel loafers

Double breasted jacket, sky blue shirt, navy tie, pocket square, white trousers.

 Mr. Gianni Dal Cortivo seen here in a linen mustard double breasted suit(6X4) blue shirt with contrasting white collar and cuffs, tie, pocket square, two toned double monks.

Here seen in a blue double breasted jacket, light coloured shirt, huge knotted tie, pocket square and grey trousers

Double breasted blue jacket with white buttons, grey trousers, pocket square all paired with a co-respondant full brogue

Here same jacket as above, stripped shirt, grey tie, white linen pocket square

Light blue double breasted jacket (6X4), stripped shirt, tie, pocket square

 Mr. Simone Righi, three button single breasted suit, pocket square, and a brown pique.

Three button single breasted mustard linen suit, stripped shirt, knitted tie (stripped) and a pocket square

Navy blue linen single breasted suit, shirt, grey tie and a pocket square, flower

Single breasted three button linen suit (could be the same as earlier), crisp white shirt, paisley tie with tones of burgundy and blue

All photos sourced from The Bespoke Dudes

Giacopelli and Dandy Shoe Care Collaboration - tassel loafer

A while ago a blogged about Giacopelli shoes from Parma (Italy) and at the time assumed that there was a working collaboration between Giacopelli and Dandy Shoe Care. Now I can cement that statement, indeed there is a connection between the shoemaker and the The patina Grand Wizard (Dandy Shoe Care).

As explained earlier, I assumed that Giacopelli and Dandy Shoe Care had a working relationship, and for the day I have sampled a tassel loafer made in Russian Reindeer hide by Giacopelli and handled and treated by Dandy Shoe Care.

Below depicted is a tassel loafer in Russian Reindeer hide before the Grand Wizard of Patina gives it an artistic hand treatment and care, and the look after Dandy Shoe Care treatment.
 The choice of the leather and patina elevates  the same shoe to higher and better dimensions. Judge yourself by comparing the pictures of the same shoe style. Compare to the last picture, the same shoe but different hide.
The raw Reindeer tassel loafer.

The processed shoe by Dandy Shoe Care 

The same tassel loafer in a different hide handled by the Grand Wizard too. The above gives a dash and splash due to the texture of the hide. Stunning.

Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care and Giacopelli shoes

Saskia Wittmer bespoke shoes - Florence

The men's bespoke shoe industry (artisanship) is mostly dominated by men, all most in all continents (Europe, The Americas, The United Kingdom and Japan). However that does not mean and say that there are no women in this industry. Most famous and known is Madame Olga Berluti from Berluti, then we have Madame Deborah Carré from the duo CarreDucker based in England (the other member being James Ducker), Sweden 
has two ladies (Carina & Asa) in the shoemaking field. WS Foster & Son has currently Emma and Emiko, the latter from Japan, maybe in the near future both will venture into their own brand of bespoke shoemaking. 

When thinking of Florence in regards to bespoke shoemaking, names like Hidetaka Fukaja, late Stefano Bemer, Antonio Mannina and Roberto Ugolini comes to mind, now add Madame Saskia to the list. Madame Saskia Wittmer,  a Berlin born, moved to Florence and a student of late Stefano Bemer, runs the Saskia house in Florence (Italy).

Madame Saskia window and logo display in Florence (Italy)

A beautiful rendition of a co-respondent full brogue in brown and white

A full brogue Oxford in antiques polishing

A quarter brogue Oxford with a cap toe medallion

A classical black Oxford with a punched cap toe

A strapped loafer in exotic hide and the apron in white linen

Display 

A whole cut Oxford in black calf hide 

A Balmoral wing tip Oxford in calf and suede

Photos sourced from MerciMeLord, News about shoes and Necessities