An English Gent look

I was having a conversation with one of my peers discussing identity and looks, question came to what defines an "English gentleman's look" and what separates him from the hordes of other men/crowd. 
After some debating and reasoning my friend concluded that the following defines an English gentleman's look: a conservative well cut and perfect fitted suiting from a reputable Savile Row firm, bespoke English made Goodyear welted shoes, preferably in black or brown colours with a cap toe and well polished, a bowler hat and an umbrella.  Yes, he was right ....
Oh... not to forget the good manners and the upper stiff lip with a brush of coolness and tradition bound individual. 

 A cartoon illustrating an English gentleman

A dignified  English gentleman walking about town.

English gentleman gathering.

Photos sourced from the Internet

GJ Cleverly - The Anthony Cleverley shoes

Mr. George Cleverley had an estranged relative known as Anthony Cleverley, who was also a bespoke shoemaker. Anthony Cleverley designed and created some very interesting shoes, amongst the shoes he designed and produced is the "De Rede" loafer, which today is offered as part of the Anthony Cleverley line at G.J. Cleverley house. No doubt that Mr. Anthony Cleverley had learned the bread and butter of the shoe making trade from the hard-core masters like Master George Cleverley and or Master Nikolaus Tuzcek himself. Some really beautiful pieces of art. Enjoy and have a nice weekend.

Master George J. Cleverley himself

Black brogued oxford as renditioned by Anthony Cleverley

 The "De Rede" loafer which was made for Baron Alexis De Rede and later named after him.

 The Anthony Cleverley brogued Derby

Photos sourced from Tumblr

Bestetti creations - Kudu and Shark oxford

I am sorry, it may seem I have a Bestetti or shark hide obsession at the moment, but it is not. I just went through the filed pictures on my computer and realised I had the below photos which I somehow forgot to blog about and publish. So here is the Shark and Kudu combination shoe.

What fascinates me with the Shark and Kudu hide oxfords, is how the shoes look like raw, before adding the polish, cream and patina etc. Whoever commissioned the below he must have known what a beautiful piece of art he demanded from Mr. Bestetti. Congrats to the gent, wear them in good health. I have to admit Mr. Bestetti is unique. Bravo!

Photos sourced from Styleforum

Bestetti Shark hide Chukka boots

This is the time for the boots to come out, they maybe, Chukkas, Balmoral boots, two toned, Chelsea it does not matter. I have sampled a Bestetti bespoke boot made of Shark hide today. I am fascinated by the texture and structure of the Shark hide. Just lovely.

The raw shark hide where the pattern will be cut from

The Chukka pattern on its making process

The Chukka on the lasting process, taking form

The Chukka almost ready for a trial fit

 

The ready shark hide Chukka boot

Photos sourced from Style Forum

Hats for the Winter - Homborg / Lobbia and Ushanka

Until the mid sixties most men wore hats in the Western countries. No man would leave his door steps without this head gear. At present it is very rare to encounter a man wearing a hat on a daily basis, except for the baseball caps seen all over. Hmm, let us leave the baseball caps for the baseball fields.  Apologies, no offence.

This brings me to the topic of the day, a formal hat for the Winter to keep my head warm with an accessory that is classic, stylish and will compliment my Theatre, Opera attire or just going about doing my business in a stylish and classical manner. 

Mr. Sven Raphael Schneider of the Gentleman's Gazette wrote a very interesting and well researched article on the Homborg hat, Lobbia and The Lords hat, if you are interested.

I have in mind the Lobbia or the Homborg hat, the latter as illustrated by Mr. Fellows below. I could opt for both hat styles though they are very close to each other in style.

Sir Churchill in a Homborg hat, (navy blue/black) with iconic bow tie. 

The Duke of Windsor in a Homborg hat

Lobbia hat from Cappelleria Malegeri a hat maker in Italy.

For those very cold days when I do need to venture out and keep the head and ears covered and cool though looking dapper, I am opting for the Russian "Ushanka" hat in Astrakhan wool. I assume this must be the ultimate Winter hat to keep a gent warm.

Astrakhan fur hat

Mr.  Harald Macmillan(USA) and Mr. Nikita Krushchev (USSR) in 1964 wearing the Ushanka hats and astrakhan furred coats.

 President Ford (USA) and Mr. L. Breshnyev (USSR) wearing the ushankas, the latter in an astrakhan wool/fur.

Photos sourced from Gentleman's Gazette, Cappelleria Melegari, Superstock and EU arts

Crombie Overcoats for a gent

The Crombie mills has been producing luxury cloth since 1805. Crombie's cloth was commended by Queen Victoria and Napoleon III, Crombie's coats were favoured and welcomed by the Russian imperial court. It is said that when USSR party secretary Mr Gorbatsjov visited the UK in the eighties, he was wearing a coat made by Crombie. I can not verify that. The Duke of York, The Duke of Windsor, Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Sir Winston Churchill and President John F. Kennedy were all Crombie wearers. 

There was a time not so long ago when the more dapper "Skinhead" subculture favoured Crombie as the garment of choice. Hmmm, stylish guys.

I sampled the below coats as they are readily available from Crombie and they look very good, timeless and stylish for any gent.

The Duke of York later King George VI, visiting the Crombie mills in 1932, dressed in a double breasted Crombie King overcoat made especially for him, bowler and well polished black oxfords.

Sir Churchill in a Herringbone Crombie coat, three piece suit, the iconic bow tie and a top hat. Not to forget the cigar.

Mr. Grant in a double breasted navy blue Crombie overcoat, grey three piece suit, a hat and suede oxford shoes.

Crombie's classic double breasted overcoat

 Crombie's Great overcoat

 Crombie's "The King coat" in camel revived from the 1932 model made for the Duke of York, later King George VI

Crombie "King coat" worn by actor Mr. Firth in the film The King's Speech from 2010, where Mr. Firth looks dapper.

 Crombie short camel double breasted overcoat

Crombie's retro coat with a velvet collar.

Pictures sourced from Crombie and Huh magazine

G. J. Cleverley shoes - more than what you expect

I have been quite for some time apologies for that. It is getting Winter and some of us do get affected by that. With that said, I would like to bring to your attention some of the little artistic details G.J. Cleverley London bespoke shoemaker can bring to a shoe without compromising elegancy and eternal style.

Side gusset "Lazy man's shoe" aka "Churchill shoe" with burgundy false laces

 The sole of the shoe

 Another false laces side gusset in calf and crocodile

 The back part of the shoe...hmmmm

 A punched brogued wing tip with in side gusset

 The inside gusset of the above

 I would love to own both pairs of shoes as they depict the typical Cleverley innovation.

Shoes sourced from Cyberspace.