Putting it together like the Ambrosi's from Naples

I have often asked myself the question, how do the artisans (of clothing, shoes, ties etc) pull their sartorial look together? For the day, I went no further than looking into what the "worlds ultimate bespoke trouser maker" wear, not just wear but how do they pull the ultimate timeless, classical and very stylish impression. So to come with an answer I sampled the "Ambrosi look", father and son, how they do it.   

Mr. Antonio Ambrosi (Ambrosi Sr) in a blue single breasted suiting, shirt, stripped tie and oxblood Oxfords. Note no shirting showing between the trousers and the belt. The trousers drapes perfectly well even when Mr. Ambrosi is in movement.

Mr. Salvatore Ambrosi (Ambrosi Jr) in a double breasted suit with large peaked lapels, white shirt, white pocket square and a tie, paired with an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Further down we will look at the details. 

Closer look at the details of the tailoring of the jacket. The the tie maybe a Passagio Cravatte not sure, but could be

 Oh yes, blue sox and an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Cool. 

Photos sourced from Ambrosi of Napoli

Bestetti three eyelet Derby the "Foster" from Novecento line

The day's sampled three eyelet Derby is from Master Riccardo Freccia Bestetti, who does not need any introduction on this blog. The below depicted Derby called the "Foster" is from the Novecento Line, very well renditioned with the unusual brogue on the vamp, dashed and splashed with a toe medallion. The topping is the well done antique polishing or patina. Just simple and elegant. 

Three eyelet Derby "Foster", round toe last and medallion from Master Bestetti

Photos sourced from Master Bestetti

Bestetti braided tassel loafer with apron

Yet another braided tassel loafer with a raised apron from Master Riccardo Bestetti's hands, I have sampled a Spring / Summer teaser for you and myself for the weekend. 

What I like about Master Bestetti's shoes is: the fact that they are very masculine though not the vulgar "Arnold" or "Rambo" like muscled guy, no pun intended, but more of a "no-nonsense" taking "gladiator" gent, who is full of confidence,  very refined and maintains that manly soft touch of Italy. Need not say that this below depicted shoe has the masculinity, the "gladiator" look and the Italian male softness. As said the beauty lies in the little details. 

Master Bestetti's braided tassel loafer with a raised apron

Photos sourced from Master Bestetti

Bestetti single strap loafer

For the last few days the weather has shown signs of Spring (here South of Sweden), which is promising, and I can not stop thinking of loafers, suedes, linen clothing and picnicking. In general lighter clothing and shoes to complement the sunny hours and colours of the day. 
This brings me to the below depicted loafer, a Riccardo Bestetti single strap loafer with a buckle, in honey colour or rather a tan/mahogany or even cognac in a beautiful patina, resembling honey. Master Bestetti's shoes do come with the most extra ordinary colouring, I have to say. Some times I wonder if the patina is not the work of Grand Master Alexander Nurulaeff (Dandy Shoe Care), I may be wrong, none-thereless, exquisite patina & colouring and elegantly looking. Candy to the eyes.

Master Bestetti's single strap loafer with a buckle on a square chisel toe. Amazing.

Photos sourced from Master Bestetti

Bestetti Shark hide Chukka boots

This is the time for the boots to come out, they maybe, Chukkas, Balmoral boots, two toned, Chelsea it does not matter. I have sampled a Bestetti bespoke boot made of Shark hide today. I am fascinated by the texture and structure of the Shark hide. Just lovely.

The raw shark hide where the pattern will be cut from

The Chukka pattern on its making process

The Chukka on the lasting process, taking form

The Chukka almost ready for a trial fit

 

The ready shark hide Chukka boot

Photos sourced from Style Forum

Spring & Summer shoes (loafers, spectator and others)

Summer is heading towards us, it is getting warmer by the day here in the Nordic and the weather is currently dry. It is time to get those loafers and other light coloured shoes out from the wardrobe to compliment the Sun.

Spring for me is the time when the heavy dark shoes, it be dark captoes, brogues, boots (all kind of) get a rest. Time for the lighter colours to see the day. Spring & Summer is the only time of the year when loafers, spectators, tan and other light coloured shoe wear come to life. 

The lighter colours also compliment the light weaved clothing, for example linen suits.

Below I have chosen the Gaziano & Girling wholecut loafers as a starter, with a typical Summer colour. I like the simplicity of the shoe, perfectly done.

Two toned coloured shoes from GG

Nice rich warm colour for the Spring & Summer from GG

Two toned colour from GG

A black tassel wholecut in black from G&G, though not typical Summer colour
but the well designed pattern, calls for it. A shoe for casual Friday.

Nice, light colour for Spring or Summer from GG

Black &White toned from GG, well some Gents may think "Capone".

Above sourced from "A Shoe Snob"

Three colours, wholecut from Bestetti sourced from "Bestetti"

Above sourced from "A Shoe Snob"

 Saint Crispin loafer in two toned sourced from "Leathersoul Hawaii"

 GJ Cleverley two toned bespoke spectator - sourced from : "Bownspoke"

WS Forster and Son Two toned bespoke spectator , sourced from http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/bespoke/bespoke_top.htm

 Bleached bespoke Full brogue WS Forster & Son, sourced from http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/bespoke/bespoke_top.htm

 GJ Cleverley bespoke suede shoe sourced from http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/bespoke/bespoke_top.htm

 GJ Cleverley bespoke two toned spectator  sourced from http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/bespoke/bespoke_top.htm

Gents, ready for Linen & spectator's + a Panama Hat? Okay, no Panama hat, just a mustard linen suit, blue shirt and two toned shoes.

Below sourced from: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com

Mr. Will (A Suitable Wardrobe) looking dashing as always & very inspirational about mens appropriate clothing, shoes & styling.