Bestetti's Balmoral (galosh) Oxfords

For the day I have sampled a Balmoral Oxford (Galosh) from Master Bestetti of Italy, the sampled is in calf and pigskin. Once again comes the "Gladiator" the "Man of Men" in such beautiful rendition, sometimes I wonder how can a male shoe be so masculine yet preserve the feminine touch and beauty and still be elegant. I am aware that for some these shoes might be boring as they are black, but there are some of us who have to mingle and sweat for our daily bread in very conservative environments, where black is appropriate. These shoe samples are sleek, elegant and they do send a clear message, whatever that is. You decide. 

Hope you all have a pleasant weekend.

Model York a Balmoral laced black Oxford in it's beauty and glory from Master Bestetti

Below a Balmoral laced Oxford in black pigskin, a hide to reckon with and appreciate. These shoes are the hight of shoemaking. Master Bestetti's shoes can not be mistaken for any as his DNA and signature is all over the shoe.  I simply love these Balmorals mine look rather wobbly bobbly compared to these. I suppose it was the last chosen. That is another story and a different shoemaker. 

Photos sourced from Master Bestetti

Gaziano and Girling - Walkton in pigskin and calf

For inspiration for a two toned wing tipped Adelaide Oxfords, I have sampled the below "Walkton" from Gaziano and Girling. The shoe is made of pigskin (black) and calf (vintage Rioja). Very interesting choice of hide and combination of the colours makes this shoe very distinctive and interesting, no doubt, heads will turn in admiration and envy.

G&G's "Walkton" in black pigskin and vintage Rioja calf hide, chisel squared toe last(TG73). The texture of the pigskin hide comes out in this combination and gives the shoe a very exotic look and appeal. Just lovely.

Photos sourced from Bespoke England

Pigskin shoes

Pigskin is underrated when coming to shoe hides. Most gents will say Crocodile, Alligator, Stingray, Shark hides etc, are most exclusive. True, but in my humble opinion pig hide does some wonders if given to the patina artisan to finish the job. What the heck am I talking about.....

Bestetti pigskin balmoral oxford (black)

Bestetti pigskin derby (Norvegese stitching) brown

 Bestetti pigskin derby (tan)

Carreducker Derby in pigskin (brown)

 Gaziano & Girling Derby in pigskin

 Gaziano & Girling loafer in pigskin

 Gaziano & Girling Derby in pigskin

 GJ Cleverley(De Rede) loafer in pigskin 

 GJ Cleverley loafer in pigskin

 Marquess side gusset in pigskin

 Marquess lazy man's side gusset in pigskin

Photos sourced from Cyberspace, A Suitable Wardrobe and Style Forum

G.J. Cleverley - De Rede (tassel loafer)

For the day I have sampled a beautiful loafer made by the well known English bespoke boot and shoemaker house, GJ Cleverley and it is part of their Anthony Cleverley range offerings. The loafer is named De Rede in honour of Baron De Rede a former client of Cleverley's. It's a loafer with a great deal details, the bow and tassel makes this loafer very unique.

The first pictures of the De Rede loafer in pigskin made for Mr. Will Boehlke (A Suitable Wardrobe). I like the rendition of the De Rede loafer in pigskin hide, as the grain texture and the colouring of the hide brings the little artistic details of this loafer out to the world, which otherwise would be taken for granted. Note that Mr. Boehlke opted for a more round toe than the squared (suede version) and the loafer gets a new dimension of beauty. Now I have to mention that Mr. Boehlke is a man/gent obsessed with details, no wonder the pairing of this loafer with the grey socks and trousers makes it so elegant to the viewer and ...... I wish to own a pair. Well done Mr. Boehlke. Thanks for your blog, a source of inspiration and of learning.

Anthony Cleverley range, De Rede loafer in pigskin

Anthony Cleverley, De Rede loafer in dark brown buckskin suede

Photos sourced from A Suitable Wardrobe

Shoji Kawaguchi aka "Marquess" - Japanese bespoke shoemaker

For the followers/readers of this blog you may have realised that I have a fascination of shoe artisans from Japan. I believe (not fact) that Japan has more bespoke shoe artisans than most European countries. In my search I stumbled upon "The Marquess" aka Shoji Kawaguchi who makes some very beautiful shoes. I assume that Master Kawaguchi is European (English) trained, as his shoes bear the English trademark, but I could be wrong. Enjoy these beauties from Japan for the weekend. 

Brown crocodile side gusset on a chisel square toe last

 Oxford punched cap toe on a rounded toe last, tan calf leather

Brown side gusset with medallion squared toe last on pigskin 

 Black pigskin side gusset with false laces-punched cap toe, soft chisel last

Client fitting of black calf leather side gusset with false laces - punched cap toe - rounded last

Photos sourced from Marquess Bespoke

Shoes not of calf but other leather

Besides the normal calf leather, shoes can be practical made of any hide, excluding the exotics, like crocodile, alligator, snake etc.

In this blog we will look at bespoke shoes made of pig, Russian reindeer, carpincho, lizard & mountain ram leather.

Very interesting choice of leathers, I must say. But look at each of the bespoke shoemakers rendition and decide. 

Below a rendition of an oxford cap toe from GJ Cleverley made of Russian reindeer calf leather, which is more than 200 years old. 

From GJ Cleverley, an Adelaide oxford made of Russian reindeer calf leather

 GJ Cleverley a full brogue from Russian reindeer calf leather

 The sole work of the above full brogue

A full brogue from Russian leather from Fukaya

Lizard Wholecut by Fukaya

Lizard Side gusset with raised apron by GJ Cleverley

A balmoral oxford Lizard &snake lining by Carréducker

Lizard & snake derby boot by Carréducker

 Close up details of the Carréducker boot

Two tier derby Iguana example from EG/G&G

Three tier Derby by EG/GG on pigskin

 GJ Cleverley pigskin slip-on

GJ Cleverley loafers made of carpincho leather, very unique.

 GJ Cleverley Mountain Ram Adelaide captoe

 

 

 All of these shoes depict the artistic rendition of each bespoke shoemaker, from London to Florence (Italy), these pieces are very unique and special.

All are timeless pieces of art, classical men shoes that will remain stylish, elegant and will stay good looking over the years as they age.

Consider these leathers next time your are commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes.

Pictures sourced from GJ Cleverley shoes, Bespoke Shoemakers Carré & Ducker, Leather Soul Hawaii, Mr. Fukaya's shoes & Men's Style Forum