Putting it together like the Ambrosi's from Naples

I have often asked myself the question, how do the artisans (of clothing, shoes, ties etc) pull their sartorial look together? For the day, I went no further than looking into what the "worlds ultimate bespoke trouser maker" wear, not just wear but how do they pull the ultimate timeless, classical and very stylish impression. So to come with an answer I sampled the "Ambrosi look", father and son, how they do it.   

Mr. Antonio Ambrosi (Ambrosi Sr) in a blue single breasted suiting, shirt, stripped tie and oxblood Oxfords. Note no shirting showing between the trousers and the belt. The trousers drapes perfectly well even when Mr. Ambrosi is in movement.

Mr. Salvatore Ambrosi (Ambrosi Jr) in a double breasted suit with large peaked lapels, white shirt, white pocket square and a tie, paired with an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Further down we will look at the details. 

Closer look at the details of the tailoring of the jacket. The the tie maybe a Passagio Cravatte not sure, but could be

 Oh yes, blue sox and an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Cool. 

Photos sourced from Ambrosi of Napoli

Ready To Wear Shoe (Crockett & Jones) Part Three

Crockett & Jones, is a Northampton (England) shoemaker who produces typical, classical English shoes. The company has been in business since 1879 and is still family owned. 


C&J produce shoes for different labels, for example Polo, Brook Brothers and others. But a C&J, will remain a C&J and you will never go wrong with these classical, goodyear welted English products. Timeless pieces as you can see from the bespoke products made many, many years ago.


C&J has two lines, the bench made and the Handgrade, the latter being top notch with a channeled sole and a better finishing. The leather of the Handgrade takes a very good shine too, as you will see on some of the depicted photos below.


Looking at the two below bespoke shoes from Crockett & Jones, then you see English shoes at their highest. Very well designed shoes, details of the brogueing is amazing, the last very well done. I would like to have a the two pairs depicted below. 

Bespoke correspondent & Half brogue oxford

Details of the correspondent oxford (beautiful brogueing)

Details of the cap toe and the medallion 

 More details of brogueing on the vamp

Crockett & Jones handgrades below

Clifford, Handgrade, 337 Last (Full brogue)

Belgrave, Handgrade, 337 Last (Punch cap toe Oxford)

Avebury, Handgrade, 337 Last (Balmoral Boot)

 

Clarence, Handgrade, 337 last (Balmoral boot)

Handgrade Double monk

Tavistock, Handgrade 337 last, blind full brogue

Weymouth, Handgrade, 337 last, Wholecut

Weaved Chukka Boot, 337 Last

 

Spectator, Full brogue, 337 Last

Side gusset, last unknown (seems to be a non handgrade), however beautifully done.

Gents, as you can see the Crockett & Jones 337 last is a very beautiful design, chiselled, a bit square, I would say rounded chisel. It is a last that has come to stay. The 337 last was designed by a French bespoke shoemaker, Dimitriz Gomez, who is a Bespoke shoemaker operating from France. The 337 last has been around for more than a decade, and has proven to be a well received last amongst other well reputed English Bespoke shoemakers .


Photos sourced from: Mr. ETHAN "Ethandesu's blog" & The Mens Style Forum, the bespoke shoes, I can not remember, but from the Internet, Side gusset from Admiral Cod, & other models sourced from: Rakuten in Japan


All of these Crockett and Jones beauties are worth having in your shoe wardrobe. Can never go wrong with these shoes.

Shoes not of calf but other leather

Besides the normal calf leather, shoes can be practical made of any hide, excluding the exotics, like crocodile, alligator, snake etc.

In this blog we will look at bespoke shoes made of pig, Russian reindeer, carpincho, lizard & mountain ram leather.

Very interesting choice of leathers, I must say. But look at each of the bespoke shoemakers rendition and decide. 

Below a rendition of an oxford cap toe from GJ Cleverley made of Russian reindeer calf leather, which is more than 200 years old. 

From GJ Cleverley, an Adelaide oxford made of Russian reindeer calf leather

 GJ Cleverley a full brogue from Russian reindeer calf leather

 The sole work of the above full brogue

A full brogue from Russian leather from Fukaya

Lizard Wholecut by Fukaya

Lizard Side gusset with raised apron by GJ Cleverley

A balmoral oxford Lizard &snake lining by Carréducker

Lizard & snake derby boot by Carréducker

 Close up details of the Carréducker boot

Two tier derby Iguana example from EG/G&G

Three tier Derby by EG/GG on pigskin

 GJ Cleverley pigskin slip-on

GJ Cleverley loafers made of carpincho leather, very unique.

 GJ Cleverley Mountain Ram Adelaide captoe

 

 

 All of these shoes depict the artistic rendition of each bespoke shoemaker, from London to Florence (Italy), these pieces are very unique and special.

All are timeless pieces of art, classical men shoes that will remain stylish, elegant and will stay good looking over the years as they age.

Consider these leathers next time your are commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes.

Pictures sourced from GJ Cleverley shoes, Bespoke Shoemakers Carré & Ducker, Leather Soul Hawaii, Mr. Fukaya's shoes & Men's Style Forum

How Prince Charles has always been king of wardrobe recycling

Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1186234/Ones-antique-clothes-How-Prince-Charles-king-wardrobe-recycling.html#ixzz1nJvLgqz8

Take those old shoes he wore to walk around Hereford Cathedral this week. They cost around £2,500 and were made for him by Lobb of St James's - not, as many sartorial commentators have noted, by John Lobb, Bootmaker of Jermyn Street.

There is a subtle, but crucial difference. John Lobb, Bootmaker is a Paris based, Hermes-owned footwear brand that has branches all over the place. They charge a mere £400 per pair.

Lobb, on the other hand, is a bespoke-only operation in the quiet end of St James's.

This outfitter has made footwear for Aristotle Onassis, Roald Dahl, Cole Porter, Lord Olivier, Harold Macmillan and Ted Heath.

To make a pair of shoes is a lovingly laborious process involving a hand-made wooden last, eight pieces of leather and expert stitching techniques. You don't throw a pair of Lobb shoes out because they get old.

You keep them, cherish them, have them mended, feed them with finest saddle soap and then get buried in them.

Charles clearly loves wearing clothes with provenance, with a bit of a story to tell.