GJ Cleverley - Grained Cordovan Full brogue for the countryside

I am aware that the English shoemakers are not very keen of Cordovan, "crup" as it is called in the UK. Cordovan is the American bang. But ...yes, when I saw this "crup" grained full brogue from GJ Cleverley, I go Wow!

I almost passed it but then, a better look at the hide, punching details and overall look of the shoe and colour then I was interested. It is a very interesting shoe, first and foremost grained Cordovan hide, then the punching and brogueing, which might look excessive and too much. But we have to go back in the day when brogues had a purpose in the Highlands. 

Will not go into details, now this is a perfect shoe for the country side with tweeds, will perhaps go hand in hand with a city suit, but can not imagine how? 

 Another thing distinctive with the shoe is the punching /brogue has a contrast to the grain and texture of the "crup" not to mention the white welting stitches which matches the brogue/punching. Oh, almost forgot not using blind eyelets, thus giving the shoe a vintage look. Difficult polishing this shoe, unless keeping with natural polish.

The beauty of going bespoke, where the commissioner of the shoe goes wild but keeps the traditions and knows what is classic, elegant and timeless. Nothing fancy just bespoke and from GJ Cleverley. Well done and no more talk.

GJ Cleverley rendition of full brogue with extra punching made of grained Crup/cordovan

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

Saskia Wittmer bespoke shoes - Florence

The men's bespoke shoe industry (artisanship) is mostly dominated by men, all most in all continents (Europe, The Americas, The United Kingdom and Japan). However that does not mean and say that there are no women in this industry. Most famous and known is Madame Olga Berluti from Berluti, then we have Madame Deborah Carré from the duo CarreDucker based in England (the other member being James Ducker), Sweden 
has two ladies (Carina & Asa) in the shoemaking field. WS Foster & Son has currently Emma and Emiko, the latter from Japan, maybe in the near future both will venture into their own brand of bespoke shoemaking. 

When thinking of Florence in regards to bespoke shoemaking, names like Hidetaka Fukaja, late Stefano Bemer, Antonio Mannina and Roberto Ugolini comes to mind, now add Madame Saskia to the list. Madame Saskia Wittmer,  a Berlin born, moved to Florence and a student of late Stefano Bemer, runs the Saskia house in Florence (Italy).

Madame Saskia window and logo display in Florence (Italy)

A beautiful rendition of a co-respondent full brogue in brown and white

A full brogue Oxford in antiques polishing

A quarter brogue Oxford with a cap toe medallion

A classical black Oxford with a punched cap toe

A strapped loafer in exotic hide and the apron in white linen

Display 

A whole cut Oxford in black calf hide 

A Balmoral wing tip Oxford in calf and suede

Photos sourced from MerciMeLord, News about shoes and Necessities

Shoe terminology illustrated

For a time I took it for granted that all of shoe blog readers we familiar with the terminology describing the shoe anatomy, then I realised that I was mistaken. Fortunate enough I did find a visual illustration naming the parts of a shoe. WIth the below depicted pictures we can now close the discrepancy.

Shoe anatomy illustrated (Full Brogue Oxford)

More shoe anatomy (Derby shoe)

More anatomy (Norwegian split toe)

Photos sourced from Meermin Tumblr

Galoshed Balmoral Oxford from Japan - Yuki Shirahama

I have for the day sampled a galosh (Balmoral Oxford) with a punched cap toe, a medallion in black calf hide. The shoe has a squared chisel toe and has that "no-nonsense" attitude. At first I thought it was a Master Bestetti creation, then realised, it was by Master Yuki Shirahama from Japan.

I think I have earlier stated that I do have a Galoshed Balmoral with a round toe and no medallion in a tan colour from G&G. I simply like the Galoshed Balmoral Oxford, first it is not so often you see it, secondly it has many possibilities. It could be renditioned with any hide & suede, or like below calf on calf. 

If the brogueing and punching was not so well done and kept in balance, it would make this shoe a bit "vulgar" or "too much going on" look, but Master YS kept it in proportions so well done and that is why I like this rendition. As I mentioned, this shoe has an attitude, very good and masculine attitude. No nonsense Galosh shoe.
Sometimes it's best just to look and admire the shoe, instead of a lot of talk... 

Balmoral (galosh punched) with a punched cap toe with a medallion, squared chisel last

Photos sourced from The Shoe Realist

John Lobb's shoes in Museum calf hide

After visiting Master Vass Laszlo's establishment in Buda-Pest, I could not get the John Lobb "Museum Calf" hide out of my head. So I looked around to find the different shoes made by John Lobb in this special antiqued hide. Now I am more than overwhelmed with the antiquing of the hide from the tannery directly. The hide has a almost interesting natural patina that is so beautiful, regardless the colour (be it Parisian, Plum etc). So I am even more anxious to see the outcome of my commissioned boot  from The Vass establishment in Hungary. The hide will be from Ilcea tannery in Italy from the Radica offering.

All good things come in due time, so I am very patient. Enjoy the John Lobb renditions in "Museum calf" and have a pleasant weekend.

Oxford Boot in Museum calf (both)

Chelsea Boot in Museum calf (left)

Double monk in Museum calf (right)

 Punched cap toe Oxford in Museum calf

 Full brogue (austerity brogue) in Museum calf

Photos sourced from Style Forum and Leather Soul Hawaii

GJ Cleverley - RTW - Aiden and Harold

I know for most of the time I focus on bespoke shoes, especially when writing about the likes of George Cleverley, from London. Now I know that the George Cleverley's house does produce some very nice and elegant, classic ready to wear shoes, which I own a number of pairs. So when I saw the darkened "tan" Aidan and the full brogue which I believe is the Harold, I was thrilled. Here I give you the Aidan and Harold from George Cleverley from the bench made offerings. Nice, classic and elegant samples. 

The Aidan breaded tassel loafer in a darkened tan colour.

The Harold full brogue in black and the other in tan calf hide.

Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care Tumblr

Dandy Shoe Care - EG Loafer & Full brogue

For the day I have sampled two pairs of shoes made by Edward Green of Northampton, England, and both pairs were treated under the artistic hands of Grand Wizard Patina designer and artist, Alexander Nurulaeff aka Dandy Shoe Care of Italy. I picked up these two as I like the movement, energy and drive in the patina colour that takes both pairs to higher dimensions, thus becoming unique shoes from Edward Green with the helping hand of the Dandy Shoe Care. Hmmm...nice touch from the Dandy Shoe Care.

For the Full brogue, the stitchings and punching are highlighted and you see not only the beauty of the shoe but also the movement of the colour in the hide, just fantastic. The same goes for the loafer, it is seldom you see the toe part of a loafer with a spit shine, that mirrored gloss. Master Alexander Nurulaeff kept a very good balance between the  the original tan colour of the loafer with new the new darker toning, bringing attention to the stitched apron. Nice energy in the loafer.

Edward Green Full brogue after a treatment by Dandy Shoe Care

 An Edward Green loafer after special treatment by Dandy Shoe Care

Photos sourced from The Dandy Shoe Care