Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers

I have been following Salvatore Ambrosi, the Naples based bespoke trouser maker for quite some time. I have to admit that I have not yet seen or held a pair of trousers from his hands, but I have to admit that what I see it is remarkable true artisanship. What makes the Ambrosi family operation so unique, is that they are focused on a niche product, making only trousers, bespoke trousers entirely by hand for their clients. It is not a mistake that the Ambrosi's are named, the "Ultimate Bespoke Trouser makers". So in short, a pair of Ambrosi made trousers, will be the ultimate you can get within the art of bespoke trouser making. I would not mind a few pairs of trousers from the Ambrosi's. 

A pair of trousers with side adjusters ready for the client

A pair of linen lavender blue trousers with side adjusters on their way to a client

Houndstooth trousers, side adjusters ready to go

Glen Urquart cloth trousers ready to go

Glen plaid trousers with side adjusters ready 

Large Glen Plaid cloth trousers ready 

Heavy Donnegal tweed for winter ready 

Glen Plaid trousers

 Houndstooth trousers

 Tweed trousers ready

 Another pair of Houndstooth cloth trousers ready to go 

 Cigar coloured linen trousers

 Another tweed trousers ready 

 Blue linen trousers 

Glen Plaid (Grey and blue) ready to go

Swatch samples to pick from

Photos sourced from Ambrosi Napoli and Style Forum

HRH Prince of Wales (Duke Of Windsor) - perfection

HRH The Prince Of Wales later Duke of Windsor a true style icon, was always very elegantly dressed, be it formal or informal. Below depicted picture of him dressed in a Prince Of Wales (Glen Urquhart) cloth three piece suiting , complimented by a cap (in bold Glen Check plaid cloth), tie and as always a pocket square. So inspiring.

HRH Prince Of Wales in a Glen Urquhart three piece suiting.

HRH The Duke Of Windsor casually dressed - 1941, large window Glen check odd jacket, pocket square and a pair of derbys.

HRH The Duke Of Windsor in a dinner jacket (black tie ensemble), shawl collar dinner jacket, boutonniere, pocket square, what a gentleman. Perfection itself.

Photo sourced from Ovadia and sons and Pauw Mannen

Charlie Watts - Style Icon

Charlie Watts from the Rolling Stones has always been a well dressed gent and he elegantly executes his ensemble though not so stiff. He wears traditional bespoke english cut styled suits and bespoke shoes. 

Mr. Watts in tweed suit, fitted but loose.

 Mr. Watts in a double breasted suit, very relaxed, thinking of a beat or two

 Mr. Watts in a Prince of Wales check suit elegantly fitted and cool

Photos sourced from Vox Sartoria

The reverse pleat on suitings

I have ordered a Prince of Wales cloth suiting (glen plaid or Glen Urquhart), a double breasted suit from my local tailor, and during the commissioning and bespeaking I stressed that the trousers be with reverse pleats and other bespoke options. But when picking up the suit, the trousers were with forward pleats. Hmmm.....anyway the suit was elegantly cut and well fitting, minus the pleat detail. My mistake.

The Glen Urquhart, Glen plaid or Prince Of Wales cloth

Two reverse pleats on trousers, note the trouser sits or hangs on Mr. Sean Connery's natural waist line and not hanging from the hips as seen these days.

A three piece suiting with reverse pleated trousers as worn by Sean Connery below. Note that the waistcoat's last button (open) ends where the trousers start, no shirting visible, no belts used. The trousers have side adjusters  therefore no need for a belt. Elegantly done Mr. Bond, very classic.

Double breasted suiting in Glen Urquhart cloth, from Apparel Art Images 1936

Pictures sourced from Conduit Cut and Ask Andy about Clothes