Tuesday, 31 July 2012

The Summer look in great colours - 2012

I used the weekend to enjoy (perhaps) the last summer days of this season in the Nordic. As of monday (yesterday) rain was back in action here in the Nordic. But for all of you who live in countries where summer is still showing the best side, so just for inspiration- look at the below depicted gents in real bright colours for the summer attire. Both gents have paired the attire worn with indoor slippers, a trend that popped up three - four years ago. 

I like the pairing of the bright yellow jacket with the dark purple trousers, white shirting and monogrammed indoor slippers. Great look. Not everyone can pull this off.
Photos sourced from Lutum-Stilo - Tumblr

Stefano Bemer - Bespoke boot and shoemaker passed away

It was by accident that I was made aware (by Ivan Crivellaro bespoke boot and shoemaker) that master bespoke boot and shoemaker Mr. Stefano Bemer passed away on the 28th July 2012. I did not know Mr. Bemer in person, but as a shoe lover, I believe that the bespoke shoemaking industry has lost an individual who has been a mentor to many shoe artisans and he has designed very interesting, elegant shoes.

My profound sympathies to his family and those who knew him in person. May the master shoemaker from Firenze rest in peace.

 A whole cut oxford made of crocodile
 A quarter brogue oxford 
 A wing tip brogued single monk
 A suede tassel loafer
All photos sourced from Mr. Stefano Bemer's site.

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Ivan Crivellaro - Blues for the Monk and Loafer

A while ago I blogged about bespoke boot and shoemaker artist Master Ivan Crivellaro here. For today I have sampled two/three of his latest works where the Master simply went blue, furthermore he pushed the soles ("soul's") of the monk to higher demanding level. The sole work of some of the creations are just so great, I suppose this will be Master Crivellaro's signature on his art works. Simply adore the "Blue" theme. Wonderful Master Crivellaro.

A blue double monk, yes. The sole (soul) of the monk very picturesque, plain art.
 A closer look at the Monk in blue and his "soul"
The initials of the Monk in blue
Side view of the double monk in blue
Blue monk in full display
The blue and grey herringbone tweed loafer
 A blue and grey herringbone tassel loafer
 A view of the toe of the loafer in blue and herringbone
Photos sourced from Master Ivan Crivellaro's FB profile

Antonio Pio Mele shoes and boots

In our digital world of today some artisans and craftsmen / ladies tend to take lots of attention and credit, whilst others remain unknown despite their trade and very high skills. Milan (Italy) has a hidden treasure in the person of Mr. Antonio Pio Mele bespoke boot and shoe maker, who is born into a family of bespoke shoe artisans and factory owners, he started to make bespoke shoes from an early age of seventeen. A call for him. 

Mr. A. P. Mele produces between 150 to 180 pairs of bespoke shoes per year for both ladies and gentlemen. The production lead time is between four to six months.
Please view the below crafts and determine yourself, a true hidden gem in the heart of Milan (Italy).  Very beautiful pieces of art.

Master bespoke boot and shoemaker Mr. Antonio Pio Mele in person, red trousers, tan double breasted jacket 6 button, closure four, pocket square, burgundy socks to the burgundy tassel loafers. A million dollar look. Looking dapper.
Crocodile riding boot
Crocodile side laced whole cut, crocodile belt and crocodile wallet
Russian reindeer adelaide oxford 
Tassel loafer in Russian reindeer leather
Two toned single monk, update here (the patina is the work of Dandy Shoe Care)
Green suede pump / opera shoe with a black bow
Photos sourced from Italian paper blog and Claymoor blog

The perfect summer shoe - Hidetaka Fukuya

The last two days the weather in the Nordic showed itself from it's best side, which is good. That made me think of a pair of ultimate summer shoes, which I found from Master bespoke boot and shoemaker Hidetaka Fukaya from Florence (Italy), whom I blogged about here and here. I have earlier seen holed shoes from Vass and other Central European bespoke shoemakers, but never appealed to me. I am now considering having two pairs commissioned for next Summer from my favourite bespoke shoemaker Master Cliff Roberts (blogged about here for example). My inspiration comes after seeing these two renditions of holed shoes from Master Fukaya. 
An oxford in suede with holes to let the feet air directly. Will have to say this is the ultimate summer shoe. Well done Master Fukaya. Lovely shoe.
 Below the two most right shoes, the green whole cut loafer made of suede with holes  and the brown oxford in suede with holes. So well done. 
Pictures sourced from Style Forum

Monday, 23 July 2012

The Ultimate shoe lover

I was looking through some of the pictures stored on my computer and found this picture of the ultimate shoe lover. This picture is just delightful. Enjoy it.
The man and his bike with a side carrier designed as an oxford
Photo sourced from the internet

The Double breasted jacket for suitings - Majestic

I have been looking at the double breasted jackets for suits for quite a long time now and came to the conclusion that double breasted jackets are so very majestic and masculine compared to the single breasted version. My inspiration for the double breasted comes from looking at pictures of HRH Prince Charles who has made the double breasted jacket his personal trademark for more than 30 years.

Words by Glenn O'Brian, journalist and style authority "the thing with double breasted, is that it's for men and not boys". How true. 

The double breasted jacket tailoring accentuates the chest, slimming the waist silhouette thus bringing out the masculine character of the wearer. Probably that is why the DB is associated with power and money.

Italian author, politician and military man Gabriele D'Annunzio in a double breasted jacket
The Duke of Windsor known for his elegant & impeccable dressing in a double breasted suit, four button (one closure) leaving a very distinctive "V" shape on the chest.
 Duke of Windsor (double breasted suit) and spouse
Actor Humphrey Bogart in a Glen plaid cloth double breasted suit. Note that Mr. Bogart's jacket closing is very high up leaving a very small "V" on the chest. Accessories are, Homborg hat, boutonniere and pocket square.
HRH Emperor Hirohito of Japan in a double breasted suiting. The Emperor and the Duke of WIndsor tend to favour the four button (one closing) as they are not so tall. The closure is more flattering for them.
The Emperor in a 6 button (2 closure) jacket and this one too closes very high, the same as Mr. Bogart's jacket.
Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni in a double breasted suiting, probably a four button version.
Giovanni Agnelli (Italy) Fiat owner and dandy in a double breasted suiting
Duke of Kent in a double breasted suiting (four button) one closure, this variation is more suitable for a tall gent like Lord Mountbatten, leaving a very clear "V" on his chest.
HRH Prince Charles (the Double breasted trademark), 6 button, 4 closure. That is the DNA dress code for suitings for HRH. Looking good even when just doing some vegetable buying at the local market. 
 Double breasted 6 button (4 closure) as usual for HRH Prince Charles. Then note that hand that is always in the pocket. I have questioned earlier about the hand in the pocket as what i HRH clutching. The suit is being complimented by a pocket square and brown loafers. Very dapper and good looking.
 Cream double breasted jacket with six buttons (four closure), but only one closed, which is very rare to see the Prince doing this. I suppose it is the heat of Indonesia, I may be wrong. Compliments to the suit is: a pocket square and a red boutonniere, very classic
Sir Michael Caine (English actor) in a double breasted jacket paired with a turtle neck, which gives a more relaxed attitude..
Photos sourced from Mr. Porter, The 10th Guild, Style Forum

Berluti shoe of the day

 The Berluti House has been making shoes and boots since 1895 and have developed and exceptional savoir-faire in mastering the shape, leather and patina. Today I picked up this three tier laced whole cut oxford which was taken for a shoe shine at the Waltz in Japan.
The Berluti three tier whole cut oxford with chisel squared toe
Photos are courtesy of Waltz in Japan

Hidetaka Fukaya - The Butterfly loafer

A while ago I blogged about Japanese bespoke shoe maker (Hidetaka Fukaya) residing in Italy (Florence), article is here. I was following up on new creations from the hand of Mr. Fukaya and to my delight, I found two butterfly loafers in the making process.

I have a very special bond with butterfly loafers, as they are not so common as tassel loafers or other types of slip-on shoes. I can only recall two men shoe shops that have them available as ready to wear products and I have never seen them worn in real life. 
So in short in the pursue of the ultimate butterfly, the below design (left) is closer to what I am looking for. I like the pattern design and overall look as renditioned by Master Fukaya.
Japanese bespoke boot and shoe maker Master Hidetaka Fukaya in person.
Butterfly loafer (suede) with punched cap toe left and calf leather right.
The left butterfly loafer, has a punched cap toe and brogueing which 
makes it more attractive and balanced to my eye. Judge for yourself
Pictures sourced from Hidetaka Fukaya's FB profile.

Saturday, 21 July 2012

Paulus Bolten the Shoe patina Master from France

Many of you know by now that I have this fascination about, patina, glacage and cirage. One of the old school Masters of the art is Paulus Bolten of Glacage Chaussures. A few months ago when I first started blogging about the art of patina I had some of his works mentioned/listed here
Today I am entirely dedicating this blog to him and his creations, which are so fascinating and well executed. Enjoy Mr. Paulus Bolten's artistic work.

The Cherry like coloured full austerity (blind) brogue, like a ripe peach to take a bite at.
A Whole cut oxford with darkened cap toe
A stitched cap toed oxford in blue 
A plain purplish oxford with interesting medallion
A Chelsea Boot  well renditioned 
A very interesting design for an adelaide oxford (hope I am correct) the shoe and the patina was what made me take Mr. Paulus Bolten's work for the day. Very, very dandy and sartorial. I love the design of this shoe and the patina executed. 
 A two tier crocodile derby in green and little touch of red. Amazing
 Two toned patina on an oxford 
 A wing tip balmoral oxford 
 A semi or quarter brogue oxford with a medallion on the cap toe
 Another delighting stitched cap toe oxford. That colouring is killing me
 A multiple toned full brogue oxford. Lovely.
All pictures sourced from Mr. Paulus Bolten of Glacage Chaussures