Wednesday, 17 July 2013

Putting it together like the Ambrosi's from Naples

I have often asked myself the question, how do the artisans (of clothing, shoes, ties etc) pull their sartorial look together? For the day, I went no further than looking into what the "worlds ultimate bespoke trouser maker" wear, not just wear but how do they pull the ultimate timeless, classical and very stylish impression. So to come with an answer I sampled the "Ambrosi look", father and son, how they do it.   

Mr. Antonio Ambrosi (Ambrosi Sr) in a blue single breasted suiting, shirt, stripped tie and oxblood Oxfords. Note no shirting showing between the trousers and the belt. The trousers drapes perfectly well even when Mr. Ambrosi is in movement.
Mr. Salvatore Ambrosi (Ambrosi Jr) in a double breasted suit with large peaked lapels, white shirt, white pocket square and a tie, paired with an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Further down we will look at the details. 
Closer look at the details of the tailoring of the jacket. The the tie maybe a Passagio Cravatte not sure, but could be
 Oh yes, blue sox and an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Cool. 
Photos sourced from Ambrosi of Napoli

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers

I have been following Salvatore Ambrosi, the Naples based bespoke trouser maker for quite some time. I have to admit that I have not yet seen or held a pair of trousers from his hands, but I have to admit that what I see it is remarkable true artisanship. What makes the Ambrosi family operation so unique, is that they are focused on a niche product, making only trousers, bespoke trousers entirely by hand for their clients. It is not a mistake that the Ambrosi's are named, the "Ultimate Bespoke Trouser makers". So in short, a pair of Ambrosi made trousers, will be the ultimate you can get within the art of bespoke trouser making. I would not mind a few pairs of trousers from the Ambrosi's. 

A pair of trousers with side adjusters ready for the client

A pair of linen lavender blue trousers with side adjusters on their way to a client

Houndstooth trousers, side adjusters ready to go

Glen Urquart cloth trousers ready to go

Glen plaid trousers with side adjusters ready 

Large Glen Plaid cloth trousers ready 

Heavy Donnegal tweed for winter ready 
Glen Plaid trousers
 Houndstooth trousers
 Tweed trousers ready
 Another pair of Houndstooth cloth trousers ready to go 
 Cigar coloured linen trousers
 Another tweed trousers ready 
 Blue linen trousers 
Glen Plaid (Grey and blue) ready to go
Swatch samples to pick from
Photos sourced from Ambrosi Napoli and Style Forum

Summer outfits 2013 - white/cream trousers

Not many men pull the white/cream trouser look during the Summer, wonder why? Here is inspiration from some gents pulling the white/cream trouser look for the Summer. So simple, yet elegant and good looking.

Navy blue double breasted jacket with covered buttons, with white trousers, light blue shirt, pocket square all paired up with a monk bootie.
Two gents in double breasted jackets (left) a linen herringbone. Left gent in a stripped double breasted jacket with brass buttons. Both in white trousers and suede shoes. The gent on the right a double monk
Two gents (left) a Summer hat, light blue pique - long sleeve, white trousers. Right gent, blue shirt, cream trousers and a jacket over shoulders.
Photos sourced from Bespoke Diary

Friday, 12 July 2013

The Italian Job - Summer looks

The Italian Job Summer looks is a collection of photos depicting Italian gents within the clothing industry of Italy. Here we can see how those who influence the everyday gent assemble their own clothing for the day. Quite inspirational, the putting together of colours, cloth, accessories  and putting it all together to make an everlasting timeless impression. Why not get inspired by these gents.
Mr. Alberto Scaccione, opted for navy blue double breasted jacket (4X2) with white buttons, collar club shirting - stripped, a tie, glasses in jacket pocket instead of a pocket square, paired with white trousers.
Peaked lapel jacket in dark blue colour, sky shirt and a light trousers, paired with suede tassel loafers
Double breasted jacket, sky blue shirt, navy tie, pocket square, white trousers.

 Mr. Gianni Dal Cortivo seen here in a linen mustard double breasted suit(6X4) blue shirt with contrasting white collar and cuffs, tie, pocket square, two toned double monks.
Here seen in a blue double breasted jacket, light coloured shirt, huge knotted tie, pocket square and grey trousers
Double breasted blue jacket with white buttons, grey trousers, pocket square all paired with a co-respondant full brogue
Here same jacket as above, stripped shirt, grey tie, white linen pocket square
Light blue double breasted jacket (6X4), stripped shirt, tie, pocket square
 Mr. Simone Righi, three button single breasted suit, pocket square, and a brown pique.
Three button single breasted mustard linen suit, stripped shirt, knitted tie (stripped) and a pocket square
Navy blue linen single breasted suit, shirt, grey tie and a pocket square, flower
Single breasted three button linen suit (could be the same as earlier), crisp white shirt, paisley tie with tones of burgundy and blue
All photos sourced from The Bespoke Dudes

Thursday, 11 July 2013

Summer looks the American way

Here I have sampled two American gents in their Summer outfits. Mr. Will Boehlke aka "A Suitable Wardrobe" and Dr. Andre Churchwell. Mr. Boehlke who runs a men's blog on classic clothing, is seen here in in light coloured odd double breasted Summer jacket (6x4) - can be part of a suit, cream trousers, crisp white shirt, a dark tie, pocket square and in white bucks. Mr. Churchwell, a three button odd jacket (roll two), pinkish shirt, stripped tie, a Summer hat, boutonniere, a pocket square, white trousers and with a pair of co-respondent Oxford laced shoes (dark brown and white). Both gents pull the classic Summer look in light colours very elegant, stylish and timeless. Well done gents.
Mr. Will Boehlke aka A Suitable Wardrobe
Mr. Will in a gabardine double breasted suit, crisp white shirt, grey tie, pocket square, Panama hat and co-respondent loafers (tan and white)
Dr. Churchwell
Dr. A. Churchwell in a club blazer (navy with bright yellow piping), crisp white shirt, regimental tie (stripped tie), cream trousers, white pocket square, boutonniere and black and white co-respondent loafers.
Photos sourced from A Suitable WardrobeDandy Portraits  and Nubian Prep

Summer looks like Mr. Cary Grant

With the Summer comes the heat, sun-shine and men should opt to lighter colours. Below pictures of Mr. Grant depicts him in a formal Summer attire and a very casual attire. The pictures shows that a gent can still be elegant and timeless even when its hot.

Mr. Grant in a more formal Summer look, light coloured double breasted suit, shirt, tie and a pocket square. Light socks and co-respondent Oxford laced shoes.
A casual Summer look alá Mr. Grant, a tee-shirt, white trousers and loafers. Good looking and timeless, classic.
Photos sourced from Internet sources

How to pull the Summer look elegantly and look aristocratic

I have sampled pictures of the late HRH The Duke Of Windsor and of HRH Prince Charles the Duke of Cornwall in Summer outfits. Both Royalties look very good, stunning, elegant and timeless in their Summer outfits. No need to look sloppy, just because it is Summer. Follow the legends and look sharp, timeless and classical.

HRH Prince Charles The Duke of Cornwall in a white silk double breasted suit, crisp white shirt, tie and a darker pocket square. Nicely done as always. 
HRH Prince Charles and Duchess of Cornwall. HRH Prince Charles in a double breasted light coloured jacket, light trousers, purplish shirt, pocket square a Panama hat. Oh the sun glasses. Nice touch

The Duke of Windsor in a double breasted white suit, crisp shirt, tie, a pocket square and white buck shoes.
The Duke of Windsor in what looks like a Seersucker single breasted suiting with patch pockets, a bow tie, a Summer hat and co-respondant loafers.
The Duke of Windsor in the same suit as above, shoes changed to buckskin shoes
All photos courtesy of different Internet sources

Bespoke shoes from Osamu Egewa - Japan

For the day I have sampled shoes and boots from Master Esamu Egewa  from Japan. Some of the shoes have a bit of a twist, splash and dash which I have never seen before. I would like to highlight the wing Balmoral Oxford in brown calf and brown suede, where the lacing is extra covered. Interesting indeed. The black calf and black suede Chukka with the tassel lacings. Another interesting and unique creation. Lastly the button Balmoral boot, nothing strange about it, rather the hide selection, which is a combination of calf and what looks like elephant hide (top part) then it is green(ish).
Well take a peak and judge for yourselves.

Wing Balmoral Oxford with extra closing

 Two toned Balmoral Boot in calf and Calf (upper grained hide in brown)

 Bootie, not sure to name it Chukka, but a bootie in calf and suede with strange lacing.

 Button Balmoral boot in calf and exotic (elephant??) two toned

Co-respondant Full brogue Oxford boot
 Co-respondant full brogue Oxford shoe
 Stitched cap toe Oxford in a nice antique patina
Photos sourced from Master Esamu Egewa