Thursday, 22 November 2012

HRH Prince of Wales (Duke Of Windsor) - perfection

HRH The Prince Of Wales later Duke of Windsor a true style icon, was always very elegantly dressed, be it formal or informal. Below depicted picture of him dressed in a Prince Of Wales (Glen Urquhart) cloth three piece suiting , complimented by a cap (in bold Glen Check plaid cloth), tie and as always a pocket square. So inspiring.

HRH Prince Of Wales in a Glen Urquhart three piece suiting.
HRH The Duke Of Windsor casually dressed - 1941, large window Glen check odd jacket, pocket square and a pair of derbys.
HRH The Duke Of Windsor in a dinner jacket (black tie ensemble), shawl collar dinner jacket, boutonniere, pocket square, what a gentleman. Perfection itself.
Photo sourced from Ovadia and sons and Pauw Mannen

Bespoke Tony Gaziano creations from EG time

Mr. Tony Gaziano of Gaziano and Girling (Kettering - England), was bespoke last maker and operated Edward Green's bespoke department before collaborating with Mr. Dean Girling to start the G and G bespoke shoe company in 2006. Mr Gaziano lasted and made some very beautiful bespoke shoes whilst at Edward Green, for the day I have collected two samples to share with you. Very elegant and timeless shoes, so well balanced.

Espresso or Mocca coloured semi brogues with medallion on a squared chisel toe
Side gusset with punch cap toe and a medallion, nice colour for the Summer. I will always recommend side gussets for those gents who travel a lot.
Photos sourced from Tony Gaziano

John Lobb - two and three toned creations

John Lobb needs no introduction in the bespoke shoe business, same as Rolex, Mercedes Benz or Coca Cola are well known brands around the world. Just enjoy JL's creations. 

Balmoral Boots line up
 Button Balmoral shoe with punched cap toe. This type of shoe I have never seen on a gent's feet in real life. Very formal and elegant. 
 Laced Balmoral oxford in black leather and grey suede 
 Full brogue spectator, very nice looking shoe for the Summer.
Photos sourced from Engrande Pompe Forum

Wednesday, 21 November 2012

Cary Grant - impeccable as always

Mr. Cary Grant looking very elegant, stylish and so classical not to mention impeccably dressed as always. Mr. Grant below depicted wearing a navy flannel chalk stripped double breasted suit, paired with a tie and a pocket square. It is season for warmer suiting cloth, so flannel is appropriate for the season to keep a gent warm. Shoes are of suede. Wonder for whom is he carrying the glass of milk? A lady perhaps..hmm will never know. An update: a reader made me aware that the photo is from a the movie "Suspicion" and the milk is for Joan Fontaine. Now we have that in place. (thanks) 
 Mr. Grant in a grey three piece suiting, a double breasted navy blue overcoat, holding a Homborg hat. Classical, stylish and timeless attire. The shoes are suede oxfords. 
Photo sourced from The culture concept and Pauw Mannen

Paul Davies - Underrated English bespoke shoemaker

Bespoke boot and shoemaker Paul Davies of the London Shoemaker is an underrated bespoke shoe artisan and not so "appreciated". Surfing and researching the web does not give so many hits, very surprising as Mr. Paul Davies makes some very beautiful, traditional English styled shoes, so classic and timeless. Mr. Davies has been in the shoemaking business for over thirty years and learned the craft and art of making bespoke shoes from New and Lingwood, GJ Cleverley and WS Foster  before venturing and establishing his own business.
I encountered Mr. Davies about six or seven years ago when I was looking for a two toned Balmoral oxford and I saw the below depicted brown two toned Balmoral oxford and I was sold right there. I liked everything about this shoe, the last (rounded), the very rich brown colour combined with the brown suede. But along the process of looking and hunting for bespoke shoemakers, I "lost" him. A pity, but I rejoiced when I found him again. I therefore share with you shoe art from Master Davies. Enjoy.

The Usual Suspects line up from Mr. Davies
The two toned Balmoral oxford in brown leather and suede
Close up of the Balmoral oxford cap toe, so neat.
A brown brogued Adelaide oxford, punched cap toe and a medallion on the cap toe
Close up of the medallion on the cap toe, oh well done.
Photos courtesy of Paul Davis blog and Style Forum

Giacopelli bespoke shoes from Parma

I recently came across bespoke boot and shoemaker Giacopelli from Parma, Italy. The Giacopelli house produces bespoke for both ladies and gents. The house has been producing shoes since 1976.
Their products are elegant, traditional mens shoes, very stylish and timeless. What caught my eye and interest in the Giacopelli offerings, was the very beautiful patina renditioned on almost all of the Giacopelli's products. 
I am almost certain that there is some collaboration between The Dandy Shoe Care and the Giacopelli house.  Why so ? Both the Dandy Shoe Care and Giacopelli are from Parma and a careful inspection of the patina seems to bear the indisputable dna evidence from Master patina Alexander Nurulaeff. 

Enjoy and inspect these beauties. 

Adelaide oxford with a punched cap toe
 Burgundy or oxblood stitched cap toe oxford

Tan patina whole cut oxford 
Brown full brogue with antiqued patina
Two toned full brogue spectator

Stingray single monk
Tassel slip-on
Country two toned boots in leather and crocodile, Norvegese welting
 Furred oxford country boots in leather and crocodile, Norvegese welting.
Photos sourced from Giacopelli

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

Yohei Fukuda - The art of shoemaking - The Monk

I have more than half a year ago blogged about Master Yohei Fukuda (Japan) on this blog (here) and now I was following up on some of his great creations. I sampled this very beautiful rendition of a monk strap in espresso calf leather. This monk is so simple and very rich in colour, reminds of the one I received from Master Cliff Roberts of Northampton earlier this year. Well done Master Yohei Fukuda.

The pattern of the single strap monk
The tree last where the leather pattern will be strapped on to take form
Photos sourced from Master Fukuda

Boot season - Carréducker boots

I have for the day sampled boots from the duo English bespoke boot and shoemakers Carréducker. I have been following the two artisans for some time now and I was fascinated by their rendition of the two toned button Balmoral boot or "Spat Boot". I do not know how many times I have stated that I am a sucker for boots and especially button Balmoral boots in all versions, so I was not going to miss  the opportunity of sharing the two toned button Balmoral boots from Carréducker with you.

Brogued oxford boot
 Details of the heel with very interesting brogueing/hole punching.
 Black and tan coloured Derby saddle boot.
 Derby saddle boot
Details of the saddle part
 Whole-cut alligator boot
Spat boot or button Balmoral boot (two toned). Now these are my favourite boots, which are rarely seen today. 
Photos sourced from Carréducker blog

Berluti details and patina

For the the day I have sampled a Berluti creation for it's particular details and patina attributed to this Indio ankle boot. The House of Berluti is well known for its very extreme patina and artistic creations. Fascinating and well executed. On this bootie so much is emphasised on bringing the details out to the surface for exploration and admiration.

I would not be surprised if someone told me that this is the work of one of the patina Masters, be it Master Hom, Master Dandy Shoe Care or even Master Paulus Bolten. Well whoever was the patina Master on this booties, did a great job. Let the pictures speak for themselves and you be the judge.

A Berluti "Indio ankle boot" in Tan and with patina.
Photos sourced from Timeout Watchprosite