Tuesday, 27 August 2013

I am not going to be the spoiler of the 2013 Summer, but like all good things come to end at some point. Now it is  time to bring those darker coloured shoes out to welcome the Autumn, when I say out, I do mean, in a well polished, cared manner worthy a  gent. If you did not do that, please be inspired by Dandy Shoe Care. How to accomplished that?
Get inspired by Dandy Shoe Care, see depicted pair below.

Well come back Master Alexander, hope you enjoyed your vacation and thanks for once again reminding us, that well polished shoes do look great and say a more than a million words about the wearer.
A brown brogue Oxford with a punched cap toe, well polished and cared for by Dandy Shoe Care
Photo sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

Alden Norwegian Split toe limited edition

Now it is obvious The Patina designer, artist The Grand Duke of patina is back from his well earned and deserved vacation. I am not a fan of Aldens (USA) shoes, however I have two pairs of Norwegian split toe on Black cordovan and Shell 8 (more dark burgundy). When I saw this transformation from the almost nothing saying colour to the Limited Edition, I was taken back and with a good reason too. A well renditioned patina design and colouring. Well done Grand Duke Of patina.
Alden Limited Edition of a Norwegian split toe processing
Photo(s) sourced from Dandy Shoe Care

Pitti "uniformed" in blue for the Summer

When viewing pictures of men from the Pitti show, you observe very well dressed gents, going about chatting to other gents/ladies, simply doing what they do on a non-working day and having fun and looking very good. Digging into the the photos sourced from The Sartorialist from Pitti two or three years ago, did find these two photos of two different gents, however both opted for "uniform" Summer clothing for the Summer period. What is striking about the uniform is the colour of the suiting, the shirting and the necktie. I could have said same suit, but no. The first gent is in a double breasted suiting with patch pockets, paired with a sky blue large gingham shirting, closing it with a navy blue knitted tie.
The gent below, is in a single breasted suiting, sky blue medium gingham shirting, closing with a navy blue knitted tie. Very interesting, how the colours and patterns were chosen for the day. (Maybe they did call each other before venturing out). How would I know?
Photos sourced from The Sartorialist

Tuesday, 13 August 2013

Summer hats from Pitti

Still in the mood of Pitti pairing sun glasses and Summer hats, we have two gents, one in a double breasted jacket, boater hat and sun glasses in a sky blue shirting and a pocket square, looking so elegant. The other photo depicts a gent in a cream suit, single breasted suiting crisp white shirting and a knitted tie and a Summer hat. Both have dashed their clothing so elegantly. However on the second picture I do miss the pocket square.
 Summer fittings with Summer hats.  So cool.
Photos sourced from Eleganza Delgusto
From Pitti I have sampled three-four gents, two in double breasted jackets and two in single breasted single blazer/jacket for the Summer. Now what is unique is that all gents assembled their attire with Summer hats, classical Summer hats and paired them with sun shades. Looking at the pictures each man is unique as how he sets the dash and splash on his wardrobe. Just so inspiring and well done.
The trio in Summer hats and nice shades (sun glasses) so nice neat.
The gent in front of the trio in a white summer jacket, crisp white contrasting shirting and a Summer hat
Photos sourced from Eleganza Delgusto

Monday, 12 August 2013

Imai Hiroki - The Ultimate Summer sandal

Mostly for the Summer men are in loafers, boaters, Belgian shoes, espadrilles (for the beach) very seldom do we see a sandal shoe. For the day I have sampled a very unique sandal shoe from Master Imai Hiroki . The sandal is in to tones, open to let ventilation  pass through when it gets very hot - air condition we could say. 
The design is very unique, so well done and executed, this shoe it's worth any shoe wardrobe. Enjoy it.

Master Imai Hiroki sandal for those very hot days

Photo sourced from Master Imai Hiroki's Facebook Profile

Tuesday, 6 August 2013

GJ Cleverley - Peter in black from the semi bespoke offerings

For the day I have sampled a pair of black quarter brogues with a punched cap toe (Peter) from the GJ Cleverley's "Semi Bespoke" offerings. As you may know the GJ Cleverley house prior to introducing the "Anthony Cleverley" range they had the Bespoke, Semi bespoke and the Bench made ranges. At then the Semi bespoke range consisted of about six styles of shoes, and If I recall correctly all were on the 337 last.

So this year in March I ordered a pair of "Peter" from the "semi bespoke range" and waited for a few months for the shoes to come. Finally they arrived, but I was busy travelling, so I signed off for them and off I went. Fourteen days later before flying out again, needed to look at my newly acquired "boring" black shoes. And surprise, surprise.

First and foremost, the leather is different from my other GJ Cleverley shoes, much better quality, the finishing is quite different, one can note the hand finishing part, the heel is slightly smaller (Cuban heel) compared to the bench made and the sole waist much suppressed, more elegant and slimmer and gives an overall sleek look. The shoes are also lighter. Oh yes, the Peter is not just Peter but Peter version 2, which is not on the 337 last but 348, I pressume, as I have a punched cap toe from 2009 or 2010 which is on that 348 last, I believe it is called Charles. 

Long story short. A great looking shoe, well done and executed and different from my other GJ Cleverley's bench made shoes. One minor thing, the Cleverley's forgot to include the shoe trees, will be calling them before I fly out again tomorrow. I am pleased with this shoe. As you can note, I did some elbow work, not much but a bit and you can see the results. Quite a shoe even a black "boring" punched cap toe shoe can bring so much delight. So what is next? I will be moving from the normal bench made to the semi bespoke range, for the +700 quid, it's worth it.

The Peter-2 from GJ Cleverley house Semi bespoke range
Photos sourced from The Shoe Aristo Cat

GJ Cleverley - Punched full brogue side gussets with faux laces

The beauty of going bespoke, the design, pattern, leather, last, colour, brogueing or punching, inner lining and more. As I have said before going into the process of bespoke, be it a suit, coat, shoes and overcoat or more it is not just purchasing but a process of commissioning something that will last for many years. For the day I have sampled a favourite shoe of mine, a side gusset with faux laces from GJ Cleverley
Now let us a take a full brogue, strip it off (away with the brogue stitchings), just leave the punching, then add the faux laces in a darker colour than the shoe, pinched it up with the GJ Cleverley square chisel toe and made from the Whiskey calf hide and then dash it up with side gussets on both sides. Oh ---what do we have? A full brogue (punched) no stitchings to distract the eye from the punching, add side gussets and with faux laces, so elegant, simple, yet very refined and classic.
So English, rather so GJ Cleverley's(que) and not within 10 000 Km's will you see something similar. Oh if my pocket was deep enough, I could relieve some of the heavy burden from my pocket and make the Cleverley's cash box a lot heavier.

Bespoke GJ Cleverley full brogue (no stitchings) punched side gusset with faux laces.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverly

HRH Prince Charles and his patched grey suit

HRH Prince Charles, Prince of Wales and the Duke of Rothesay (Scotland) and Duke of Cornwall (South West England), was recently spotted wearing the same grey suit over several occasions. We are all aware that The Prince of Wales is a man who recycles his shoes, now we can add the grey suiting to the recycling process. Here it shows that the Duke of Cornwall does care for his clothing, which are bespoke by Anderson & Sheppard. Wonder why the Prince Of Wales has been selected best dress gent over time. Well done your Royal Highness we can learn a thing or two from you.
The Prince of Wales in his grey double breasted suiting from Anderson and Sheppard, which has been patched after a mishap.
Same double breasted suiting worn on another occasion
The patching on the grey suiting. Well done. 
Same suit in different occasions
The Prince of Wales and Mr Hitchcock (AS) sort through a box of offcuts from the Prince's suits. Photo: John Spinks from Fashion-Telegraph-UK
Photos sourced from Benpentreath, Telegraph and Daily Mail

Friday, 2 August 2013

Young Master Roberts - on the hard way towards classic style

Just before I head for my Summer vacation, I just needed to add some of the items which I had planned, but...alas. 
Sometimes I do ask myself, when does one start the hard journey to be stylish, dress impeccably and classical? For most of the time, we hear about those born with a golden spoon and have the time to do so effortlessly and under the heavy hawk eye guidance of their parents. But what about the rest of us? 
Now for the day I have sampled young Master Roberts, just at seventeen and looking very dapper in a grey single breasted suiting with one button, jetted pockets, which gives the jacket (suit) a very formal look, slim lapels (almost sixties look). White shirting and a very slim navy blue tie. 
Now we just have to wait for a second, ..... at seventeen, the young Roberts is dressed up for a job interview. Now how many grown ups have turned for an interview in chinos and thought, I am wearing dress trousers?  How many have pulled up a suit for a job interview? 
I have to congratulate young Master Roberts for pulling this look for an interview, it shows that it's never too early to start dressing up impeccably and with classic style. 

Young Master Roberts heading for an interview, very soberly dressed up. Your father must be very proud of you young man. (I just miss that little pocket square on the jacket.)
Father and son holding a pair of bespoke shoes made by Master Cliff Roberts
Younger Master Roberts a year ago (2012) heading for a prom
Photos sourced from Master Cliff Roberts Face Book profile

Master Cliff Roberts - A Summer tassel loafer

The Summer has been extremely hot in Europe and seems to hold the high temperatures for a time still. I was about not to continue on Summer clothing and shoes, but due to the very high heat, it will still be appropriate to mention some of the Summer offerings from diverse bespoke shoemakers and bespoke tailors. For the day I have sampled a pair of tassel loafers in real Summer colours (two toned) red and tannish in a square toe last. This is a product from Master Cliff Roberts the "One man bespoke operation".  Many of you know by now that besides GJ Cleverley my other favourite shoemaker is Master Cliff Roberts.

The colouring (patina) seems to have been done directly onto the leather rather than creating the patina by polishing, I maybe wrong on that, will have to ask Master Cliff Roberts about the technique used. Why I love this loafer and it's colours, it's because it still looks very sober and not shouting at the world. Would not mind this piece of shoe as part of my Summer arsenal.
Master Cliff Roberts Summer tassel loafer
Photo sourced from Master Cliff Roberts Face Book profile

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

Putting it together like the Ambrosi's from Naples

I have often asked myself the question, how do the artisans (of clothing, shoes, ties etc) pull their sartorial look together? For the day, I went no further than looking into what the "worlds ultimate bespoke trouser maker" wear, not just wear but how do they pull the ultimate timeless, classical and very stylish impression. So to come with an answer I sampled the "Ambrosi look", father and son, how they do it.   

Mr. Antonio Ambrosi (Ambrosi Sr) in a blue single breasted suiting, shirt, stripped tie and oxblood Oxfords. Note no shirting showing between the trousers and the belt. The trousers drapes perfectly well even when Mr. Ambrosi is in movement.
Mr. Salvatore Ambrosi (Ambrosi Jr) in a double breasted suit with large peaked lapels, white shirt, white pocket square and a tie, paired with an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Further down we will look at the details. 
Closer look at the details of the tailoring of the jacket. The the tie maybe a Passagio Cravatte not sure, but could be
 Oh yes, blue sox and an Adelaide Oxford from Master Bestetti. Cool. 
Photos sourced from Ambrosi of Napoli

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers

I have been following Salvatore Ambrosi, the Naples based bespoke trouser maker for quite some time. I have to admit that I have not yet seen or held a pair of trousers from his hands, but I have to admit that what I see it is remarkable true artisanship. What makes the Ambrosi family operation so unique, is that they are focused on a niche product, making only trousers, bespoke trousers entirely by hand for their clients. It is not a mistake that the Ambrosi's are named, the "Ultimate Bespoke Trouser makers". So in short, a pair of Ambrosi made trousers, will be the ultimate you can get within the art of bespoke trouser making. I would not mind a few pairs of trousers from the Ambrosi's. 

A pair of trousers with side adjusters ready for the client

A pair of linen lavender blue trousers with side adjusters on their way to a client

Houndstooth trousers, side adjusters ready to go

Glen Urquart cloth trousers ready to go

Glen plaid trousers with side adjusters ready 

Large Glen Plaid cloth trousers ready 

Heavy Donnegal tweed for winter ready 
Glen Plaid trousers
 Houndstooth trousers
 Tweed trousers ready
 Another pair of Houndstooth cloth trousers ready to go 
 Cigar coloured linen trousers
 Another tweed trousers ready 
 Blue linen trousers 
Glen Plaid (Grey and blue) ready to go
Swatch samples to pick from
Photos sourced from Ambrosi Napoli and Style Forum