GJ Cleverley - Punched full brogue side gussets with faux laces

The beauty of going bespoke, the design, pattern, leather, last, colour, brogueing or punching, inner lining and more. As I have said before going into the process of bespoke, be it a suit, coat, shoes and overcoat or more it is not just purchasing but a process of commissioning something that will last for many years. For the day I have sampled a favourite shoe of mine, a side gusset with faux laces from GJ Cleverley. 
Now let us a take a full brogue, strip it off (away with the brogue stitchings), just leave the punching, then add the faux laces in a darker colour than the shoe, pinched it up with the GJ Cleverley square chisel toe and made from the Whiskey calf hide and then dash it up with side gussets on both sides. Oh ---what do we have? A full brogue (punched) no stitchings to distract the eye from the punching, add side gussets and with faux laces, so elegant, simple, yet very refined and classic.
So English, rather so GJ Cleverley's(que) and not within 10 000 Km's will you see something similar. Oh if my pocket was deep enough, I could relieve some of the heavy burden from my pocket and make the Cleverley's cash box a lot heavier.

Bespoke GJ Cleverley full brogue (no stitchings) punched side gusset with faux laces.

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverly

GJ Cleverley - Edwardian button shoe with side gusset in heavy hide

For the day I have sampled a very interesting shoe, not seen on a daily basis around town, a button shoe with side gussets made of very heavy weight hide. The Balmoral button boot is rare, but the shoe version is almost instinct, then add a side gusset to it, it is becomes so individual and rare as rare can get. However a gent commissioned a button shoe, with the distinctive GJ Cleverley chisel square toe and then topped it of with a heavy duty hide from elephant. The beauty of this shoe is in the minor details, the design, the adding of the gusset and lastly the hide selection. Ultimate result a beautiful, elegant, classic and timeless shoe. Again GJ Cleverly opened the magic shoe box.

Bespoke buttoned side gusset GJ Cleverley shoe made of of elephant hide

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley.

GJ Cleverley - V Galosh side gusset with faux laces

Once again the GJ Cleverley house pulls out another rabbit out of the magic bag. Not surprising that they "one of the best" London based shoemakers. The Cleverley house is known for its "very suspicious chisel square toe cap", but they are also known for their side gussets, which were created by Master George Cleverley himself for Sir Winston Leonard-Spencer Churchill, British politician and Prime Minister of the United Kingdom between 1940-1945 and 1951-1955.

The below depicted shoe is a "balmoral" by nature, as the top is separated from the bottom part by a galosh in a V shape. The top part of the shoe is a crocodile hide and the bottom part is black suede with a perforated design on the toe, and with red contrasting faux laces in calfskin matching the lining of the shoe. Wow! I go. 

Once again we see the beauty of a commissioned or bespoke shoe, which is a process that takes time. The commissioner has to think of the details of the shoe, design, styling, choice of leather, artistic details and lastly the envisioning of the product as a whole. Results, a very good looking, elegant, classic and timeless shoe with a personal touch. Whoever the gent is, he definitely has good taste and is a shoe connoisseur. Wear the shoe in good health.

To all of you readers, I wish a great weekend.

GJ Cleverley "V" galoshed side gusset with faux laces in crocodile and suede

Photo sourced from GJ Cleverley

Cliff Roberts - "Lazyman" side gusset shoe with faux laces

Master Cliff Roberts, Northampton based one man operation bespoke shoemaker, never stops amazing me. The popularity of Master Roberts started by some cyberspace gents, shoe forum, shoe lovers and shoe aficionados who got into contact with him to commission a pair or two directly from him. Word by mouth spread around about Master Cliff Roberts works and ...well you know the story by now. Master Roberts can be contacted via Facebook, if needed.

The below is a side gusset with faux laces and a toe cap medallion. I know many gents who dislike the side gusset and adding faux laces it is just not acceptable to them.  
Well, I like the side gussets, I have always said that and the addition of faux laces gives the shoe a dash of a personal touch, in my humble opinion. Not exactly a true laced Oxford, but....a kind of a loafer resembling an Oxford. So in short one has a loafer and an "Oxford" at the same time. Frankly speaking, if one travels a lot, then this is the shoe you need to have. The colour of the shoe is something between black and mid night blue, a beautiful rendition of a side gusset with faux laces. 

Well done Master Cliff Roberts. Looking forward to more works from you.

Side gusset with false laces, cap toe medallion and three piece shoe trees

Photos sourced from Style Forum

Spigola - aka Koji Sozuki weekend teasers

For the weekend teaser I have sampled these bespoke beauties from Spigola aka Koji Suzuki (Japan). From top clock wise, a double monk, split toe Norwegian in suede, a penny loafer in exotic leather, a side gusset in exotic leather, stitched cap tow laced Oxford in exotic leather and a wing tipped brown Derby. Enjoy these appetisers.

Koji Suzuki aka Spigola weekend teasers

Photo sourced from BOQ

GJ Cleverley - Full brogue (imitation) oxford with inner gusset

For the day I have sampled a full brogue (imitation) oxford with inner side gussets from GJ Cleverley (London) and I have to admit that GJ Cleverley produces some of the most elegant, light and beautiful shoes. I do have a "thing" for side gussets, I know, not many gents appreciate them, but they are practical when one travels frequently. It is very rare to see a laced oxford with side gussets, but here they are. Elegantly renditioned and very unique. Nice shoe, would like to add this pair to my Cleverley collection.

A full brogue (imitation) laced oxford with inner side gussets

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

John Lobb - classic creations for the day

For the day I have sampled two classic creations from John Lobb the venerable bespoke shoemaker. The below two renditions are from Lobb's bespoke operation. I simply like the design, colouring of these classic Oxfords. Very stunning and beautiful.

A classic John Lobb rendition of an Oxford with a medallion on the cap toe

A classic stitched cap toe laced Oxford with an inner side gusset

Photos sourced from Style Forum

For today - Masaru Okuyama creations

For the day I have sampled Master Masaru Okuyama creations. Master Okuyama  learned the bread and craft of shoemaking from Master Chihiro Yamaguchi (Guild of Crafts). Master Okuyama opened his bespoke workshop in 2008.  

Enjoy the creations and have a pleasant weekend. 

A black whole cut Oxford, round toe last

Classical stitched cap toe Oxford in grained leather, square last

Side gusset, round last

The Last line up

 Black side gusset with medallion on toe, chisel square last

 Single strapped monk, round last

 Two tier Derby, chisel last

Brogue Derby, chisel last

Norwegian split toe Derby

The sole of Master Okuyama shoes

Photos sourced from Master Masaru Okuyama

Guild of Crafts - Japan

Guild of Crafts, Asakusa (Japan) is one of the bespoke shoemaking houses which needs to be mentioned when naming the bespoke shoe industry of Japan. The Guild was established in 1996 in Asakusa, the heart of Japanese shoemaking region, by master shoemaker Chihiro Yamaguchi. 

In 1999, The Guild founded "Saruwaka Footwear College" and in 2006 the Guild opened flag shops in Ginza and Tokyo offering bespoke and made to order foot wear.

Enjoy and have a pleasant weekend.

Master Chihiro Yamaguchi in person

The Guild works with classical shoe styles, then add a modern twist to some of the creations whilst paying great respect, attention to the details, add massive passion and dedication to the art of shoemaking.  The results can be seen below at the depicted creations. 

Very distinctive side strapped single monk, I like the design of this monk. It is a monk I would like to add to my footwear arsenal.

A two toned Balmoral boot with a modern twist, stitched cap toe, chisel square toe last

 A Spat boot in two tones, rounded last

Diamond peaked cap toe side gusset in three tones

Peaked cap toe, suede side gusset...hmmmm....

Inner side laced oxford with a monogram

Seamless whole cut Oxford

 Another whole cut Oxford 

Classical stitched cap toe Oxford with darkened cap toe, square chisel last

A U winged Adelaide Oxford with a medallion, chisel square toe last

A very interesting hide samples, I think Ostrich leg and calf leather Oxford with very interesting brogue on the cap toe, round toe last.

Women's shoe designs by the Guild.

 A sports car shoe in pure leather, single tier. 

Photos sourced from Guild of Crafts and Diane Pernet Typepad