GJ Cleverley - Grained Cordovan Full brogue for the countryside

I am aware that the English shoemakers are not very keen of Cordovan, "crup" as it is called in the UK. Cordovan is the American bang. But ...yes, when I saw this "crup" grained full brogue from GJ Cleverley, I go Wow!

I almost passed it but then, a better look at the hide, punching details and overall look of the shoe and colour then I was interested. It is a very interesting shoe, first and foremost grained Cordovan hide, then the punching and brogueing, which might look excessive and too much. But we have to go back in the day when brogues had a purpose in the Highlands. 

Will not go into details, now this is a perfect shoe for the country side with tweeds, will perhaps go hand in hand with a city suit, but can not imagine how? 

 Another thing distinctive with the shoe is the punching /brogue has a contrast to the grain and texture of the "crup" not to mention the white welting stitches which matches the brogue/punching. Oh, almost forgot not using blind eyelets, thus giving the shoe a vintage look. Difficult polishing this shoe, unless keeping with natural polish.

The beauty of going bespoke, where the commissioner of the shoe goes wild but keeps the traditions and knows what is classic, elegant and timeless. Nothing fancy just bespoke and from GJ Cleverley. Well done and no more talk.

GJ Cleverley rendition of full brogue with extra punching made of grained Crup/cordovan

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

Visiting shoemakers in Budapest - Vass Shoes - part three

Now the highlight of my Budapest visit was getting to touch and feel the Vass shoe offerings directly from the source itself. Mr. Vass Laszlo is a legend and well known shoe artisan from Budapest Hungary, who did put Hungary on the International map when it comes to classic, timeless, elegant men's shoes made by hand, not in Paris, Milan or London but Budapest. 

On the day of my arrival in Budapest, I had viewed the map incorrectly and was just about to cross the bridge to the Buda side when I realised my blunder, it was during this blunder that I came across the Vass shoe shop in the city centre. Long story short, on my first visit I was met by Mr. Rezso, a very nice & charming and elegantly dressed younger man (in his thirties, I would guess), wearing Vass shoes, need not say. We had a little chat on shoes, but had to be on my way to find my place of residence. My second visit occurred in the early morning hours, meaning at opening hours at 10:00 and I was met by two ladies, Madame Bernadett(e) (younger) and Madame Valerie (older), both very charming and helpful, they allowed me to film/take photos and discussed shoes (Vass shoes) mainly. 

I was shown the very famous lasts (The K-last, U-Last, Peter-Last etc) and the new innovated lasts. I have to admit, I was thrilled and excited to see all these well made shoes in person, now I understand some of those gents who may have only Vass made shoes in their wardrobe. One thing I noted though, was that Vass single sole is thicker than an English single sole, this was not an optical delusion, I compared to my GJ Cleverley's I was wearing. 
Furthermore the Vass shop was offering computer bags in dark brown suede and in tan colour, they simply looked astonishing. I am thinking of getting a bag from them, can not recall the actual price but about 500 Euros, a bargain in my opinion. 

Anyway, I ended up ordering a Balmoral boot in their new French Oxford Boot design (A proto type at then), no cap toe, in the new hide (museum calf called Radica Cognac, I think) which has a heavy antiqued patina in burgundish colour and suede with a brownish touch, the last a Vass U-last.
So, I have five/six weeks to wait.  I am really looking forward to the boot. Will post a blog about this boot very soon.

I will strongly recommend giving Vass a visit when visiting Budapest, the establishment was for me worth the visit. I should have done the visit years ago, but oh... better late than never.  So we cut the talk and let the pictures speak for themselves.

The visitor is greeted by these exquisite window display from the outside of the shop and the Vass Shoes Logo.

Amongst the shoes a brown suede bag, well done and executed.

Cordovan collection at Mr. Vass Laszlo's shop in Budapest

Exotic renditions by Vass

Boot renditions by Vass

A double black calf monk

Ostrich hide three tier Derby

A line up of the usual Vass suspects 

More line up.....

 Small details of the line up

Two toned - exotic and calf balmoral Derby with a stitched cap toe

An exotic single and a double monk from Vass 

Suede loafers as renditioned by Vass shoes (in blue and dark brown suede)

All photos sourced from me (The Shoe Aristo Cat)

Visiting shoemakers in Budapest - Buday shoes - part two

As I said in an earlier blog, visiting Budapest was a pleasure (however not planned) and I was not going to miss the opportunity of getting by some of the other lesser known shoe artisans. So my first visit was to enter Buday shoes of Budapest (Hungary). In the shop I was met by Madame Susanne or Zsuzsanne if I am not mistaken (apologies Madame If I missed the name), a very polite, charming knowledgeable lady when it comes to the Hungarian shoe industry and shoemakers and shoemaking.

I have to admit looking, viewing and touching, and having the shoes in my own hand changed my perception of the shoes made in Central Europe (Hungary and Austria in particular). Both countries have a long standing tradition of making good shoes.
I think the general mistake most of us make, is to compare the English made shoes, especially the English lasted shoes to other shoes made in other countries for example Hungary. I appreciated the lasts and designs of the Hungarian shoes as they are unique to the region and the artisans do respect and have paid attentions to the old traditions of shoemaking. It would be odd if they merely reproduced English designed lasted shoes. 

At Buday shoes, it was in the air, not really mentioned but their Cordovan made shoes was indeed their pride. If I recall correctly, Madame Susanne mentioned the welting on the Cordovan shoes and I was left speechless. 
Buday shoes offers different lasts such as Budapest 1928, Budapest 1939, Pilis, Mako, Velence, Frakno, Tokay, Solt, Sio, Tisza and more. If and when visiting Budapest, do not miss paying a visit to Buday shoes it is worth the time and you may end up picking a pair or two of shoes. 

Buday shoes (Budapest - Hungary) logo from outside the street 

From the window display outside of the shop

 A display of various offerings by Buday shoes

In the centre a braided leather Oxford and a Derby, far right a two toned braided brogue Derby

Two toned winged tipped Derby's, nice touch

Two Derby brogues, one in Tan and the other in Mahogany colour

Punched cap toe Oxford in burgundy and one in black calf hide

 

Cordovan two/three toned Derby shoes as renditioned by Buday Shoes of Budapest, note the triple welt stitching on these shoes. 

The sole details of the Buday shoes

A closer view of the Cordovan offerings in details

 Green piped edges on a tan grained three tier Derby

 A typical Hungarian lasted Oxford made of Ostrich hide, a beautiful shoe elegantly done

Some other offerings from Buday Shoes on display

 A saddle Oxford laced shoe in two tones

Photos sourced from me (The Shoe Aristo Cat)