GJ Cleverley - from the Anthony Cleverley range in Museum calf shades

For the day I have sampled GJ Cleverley classic shoes from their Anthony Cleverley line. All sampled are made from the famous Museum Calf hide. The hide is indeed stunning, very unique and gives a flow in the patina of the leather. 

GJ Cleverley does it again, Wow! If my pockets were deep enough, would have all of these in my humble shoe closet.

The "Bodie" (stitched cap toe Oxford) in Bourbon Museum calf

The "Finchley" full brogue Oxford in Bourbon Museum calf

 The "Park" (two tier Derby) in Bourbon Museum calf

The "Nakagawa" punched cap toe Oxford in antique bordeaux museum calf

Photos sourced from Leather Soul Hawaii

GJ Cleverley - Grained Cordovan Full brogue for the countryside

I am aware that the English shoemakers are not very keen of Cordovan, "crup" as it is called in the UK. Cordovan is the American bang. But ...yes, when I saw this "crup" grained full brogue from GJ Cleverley, I go Wow!

I almost passed it but then, a better look at the hide, punching details and overall look of the shoe and colour then I was interested. It is a very interesting shoe, first and foremost grained Cordovan hide, then the punching and brogueing, which might look excessive and too much. But we have to go back in the day when brogues had a purpose in the Highlands. 

Will not go into details, now this is a perfect shoe for the country side with tweeds, will perhaps go hand in hand with a city suit, but can not imagine how? 

 Another thing distinctive with the shoe is the punching /brogue has a contrast to the grain and texture of the "crup" not to mention the white welting stitches which matches the brogue/punching. Oh, almost forgot not using blind eyelets, thus giving the shoe a vintage look. Difficult polishing this shoe, unless keeping with natural polish.

The beauty of going bespoke, where the commissioner of the shoe goes wild but keeps the traditions and knows what is classic, elegant and timeless. Nothing fancy just bespoke and from GJ Cleverley. Well done and no more talk.

GJ Cleverley rendition of full brogue with extra punching made of grained Crup/cordovan

Photos sourced from GJ Cleverley

Saskia Wittmer bespoke shoes - Florence

The men's bespoke shoe industry (artisanship) is mostly dominated by men, all most in all continents (Europe, The Americas, The United Kingdom and Japan). However that does not mean and say that there are no women in this industry. Most famous and known is Madame Olga Berluti from Berluti, then we have Madame Deborah Carré from the duo CarreDucker based in England (the other member being James Ducker), Sweden 
has two ladies (Carina & Asa) in the shoemaking field. WS Foster & Son has currently Emma and Emiko, the latter from Japan, maybe in the near future both will venture into their own brand of bespoke shoemaking. 

When thinking of Florence in regards to bespoke shoemaking, names like Hidetaka Fukaja, late Stefano Bemer, Antonio Mannina and Roberto Ugolini comes to mind, now add Madame Saskia to the list. Madame Saskia Wittmer,  a Berlin born, moved to Florence and a student of late Stefano Bemer, runs the Saskia house in Florence (Italy).

Madame Saskia window and logo display in Florence (Italy)

A beautiful rendition of a co-respondent full brogue in brown and white

A full brogue Oxford in antiques polishing

A quarter brogue Oxford with a cap toe medallion

A classical black Oxford with a punched cap toe

A strapped loafer in exotic hide and the apron in white linen

Display 

A whole cut Oxford in black calf hide 

A Balmoral wing tip Oxford in calf and suede

Photos sourced from MerciMeLord, News about shoes and Necessities

Shoe terminology illustrated

For a time I took it for granted that all of shoe blog readers we familiar with the terminology describing the shoe anatomy, then I realised that I was mistaken. Fortunate enough I did find a visual illustration naming the parts of a shoe. WIth the below depicted pictures we can now close the discrepancy.

Shoe anatomy illustrated (Full Brogue Oxford)

More shoe anatomy (Derby shoe)

More anatomy (Norwegian split toe)

Photos sourced from Meermin Tumblr

GJ Cleverley - RTW - Aiden and Harold

I know for most of the time I focus on bespoke shoes, especially when writing about the likes of George Cleverley, from London. Now I know that the George Cleverley's house does produce some very nice and elegant, classic ready to wear shoes, which I own a number of pairs. So when I saw the darkened "tan" Aidan and the full brogue which I believe is the Harold, I was thrilled. Here I give you the Aidan and Harold from George Cleverley from the bench made offerings. Nice, classic and elegant samples. 

The Aidan breaded tassel loafer in a darkened tan colour.

The Harold full brogue in black and the other in tan calf hide.

Photos sourced from Dandy Shoe Care Tumblr

Dandy Shoe Care - EG Loafer & Full brogue

For the day I have sampled two pairs of shoes made by Edward Green of Northampton, England, and both pairs were treated under the artistic hands of Grand Wizard Patina designer and artist, Alexander Nurulaeff aka Dandy Shoe Care of Italy. I picked up these two as I like the movement, energy and drive in the patina colour that takes both pairs to higher dimensions, thus becoming unique shoes from Edward Green with the helping hand of the Dandy Shoe Care. Hmmm...nice touch from the Dandy Shoe Care.

For the Full brogue, the stitchings and punching are highlighted and you see not only the beauty of the shoe but also the movement of the colour in the hide, just fantastic. The same goes for the loafer, it is seldom you see the toe part of a loafer with a spit shine, that mirrored gloss. Master Alexander Nurulaeff kept a very good balance between the  the original tan colour of the loafer with new the new darker toning, bringing attention to the stitched apron. Nice energy in the loafer.

Edward Green Full brogue after a treatment by Dandy Shoe Care

 An Edward Green loafer after special treatment by Dandy Shoe Care

Photos sourced from The Dandy Shoe Care