Pumps or court shoes - The ultimate formal shoe

Pumps, opera pumps, dancing pumps  or court shoes the baby has many names. The court shoe is the oldest item of Western male tailored dress intact in its original form dating back to the 16th century. The ultimate formal shoe for men.


Beau Brummel the English Dandy brought the bow to the pump and the pump has not changed since then. Mr. Brummel was known for his nicety of dress, elegance of his manners, and smartness of his repartee. He made personal cleanliness popular. Cleaning his teeth, shaving, and scrubbing in a bath daily. He dressed with simple elegance. Of understated elegance he once said: "If John Bull turns round to look after you, you are not well dressed; but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable."

The pumps, opera pumps, dancing pumps or court shoe in calf leather

Opera pumps and patent leather shoes with silk ribbon laces

Mr. "Beau" Brummel (Mr. George Bryan Brummel (1778-1840) below

Photos sourced from Vox sartoria and Georgian Index

Formal Shoes for a Gent

It seems I am in collision with some Gents regarding the ultimate formal shoes for weddings, black tie arrangements, the Opera or and Theatre. Not many men wear Opera pumps today, but many will settle for the patent leather shoes for formal wear, which is appropriate and acceptable. 
When commissioning formal shoes for weddings, Opera, Theatre or even black tie events, then I would suggest having a shoe that can be re-used many a times, such as the earlier (blog) mentioned black whole cut oxford. When silk ribbon laces are added to the shoe, then it is a very formal shoe for the black tie event, wedding, Theatre and or Opera. 

Below is a bespoke pump or Opera shoes from Carreducker. No doubt this is the Ultimate evening shoe for black tie event, wedding or Opera.

The pump paired with silk stockings. Nothing beats that.

Now the above will only be used mainly for the aforementioned events and indoors, as the construction of the shoe is very light.  Personally I am not much for patent leathered shoes, but many Gents do own patent leathered shoes for formal occasions, so why not pair the patent leather with silk ribbon laces to give that little pinch of spicing. 

Now, I mention the black whole cut oxford as the ultimate formal shoe especially when paired with silk ribbon laces. If I had to own and only have one essential pair of shoes, I would opt for a black whole cut oxford, because it can be used for almost any occasion, from formal to informal. 
On the other hand, the pump and the patent leather shoes can only be used for the evenings, weddings, black tie assemble, theatre and or Opera. 
So why not have a shoe that is versatile and can be reused depending on the occasion. 
Imagine adding a silk ribbon lace to the below whole cut. Ultimate wow.....for the Opera, Theatre, wedding, black tie event. Same shoe with normal laces becomes just an oxford for business.

Below a black whole cut by Gaziano & Girling from the Deco range.

Pictures sourced from Carreducker, Gaziano & Girling and the Internet.

Bestetti - Ultimate Formal Shoe

Today I have picked Riccardo Bestetti's bespoke black oxford stitched cap toe as the ultimate formal shoe, for weddings or evenings, if one does not want to wear pumps. The shoe is elegantly made, instead of a punched cap toe it is stitched and then paired with silk ribbon laces, better it can not be. Well, ....will come to that later.

If the laces are substituted for normal laces, then the shoe is a normal business oxford. 

I said better it can not be, well, yes, if the same shoe was a whole cut and no stitching or brogueing, then it would be the Über formal oxford shoe and then no need for patent leather shoes. 

Bestetti's stitched cap toe oxford with silk ribbon laces.

Picture sourced from Riccardo Bestetti