Opera season starting soon - dress accordingly

The Opera season will soon start and a true gent should dress accordingly for the occasion. It is the time when the black tie attire comes to it's glory accompanied and complimented by the Opera pumps. I am thinking of commissioning a pair of pumps, as oxfords seem odd to wear with evening attire. There is no need for me to shy away from these beautiful "court shoes".

Mr. Sinatra getting ready for the evening "pumping up".

Photo sourced from the Internet, can not recall where

Antonio Pio Mele shoes and boots

In our digital world of today some artisans and craftsmen / ladies tend to take lots of attention and credit, whilst others remain unknown despite their trade and very high skills. Milan (Italy) has a hidden treasure in the person of Mr. Antonio Pio Mele bespoke boot and shoe maker, who is born into a family of bespoke shoe artisans and factory owners, he started to make bespoke shoes from an early age of seventeen. A call for him. 

Mr. A. P. Mele produces between 150 to 180 pairs of bespoke shoes per year for both ladies and gentlemen. The production lead time is between four to six months.
Please view the below crafts and determine yourself, a true hidden gem in the heart of Milan (Italy).  Very beautiful pieces of art.

Master bespoke boot and shoemaker Mr. Antonio Pio Mele in person, red trousers, tan double breasted jacket 6 button, closure four, pocket square, burgundy socks to the burgundy tassel loafers. A million dollar look. Looking dapper.

Crocodile riding boot

Crocodile side laced whole cut, crocodile belt and crocodile wallet

Russian reindeer adelaide oxford 

Tassel loafer in Russian reindeer leather

Two toned single monk, update here (the patina is the work of Dandy Shoe Care)

Green suede pump / opera shoe with a black bow

Photos sourced from Italian paper blog and Claymoor blog

Pumps or court shoes - The ultimate formal shoe

Pumps, opera pumps, dancing pumps  or court shoes the baby has many names. The court shoe is the oldest item of Western male tailored dress intact in its original form dating back to the 16th century. The ultimate formal shoe for men.


Beau Brummel the English Dandy brought the bow to the pump and the pump has not changed since then. Mr. Brummel was known for his nicety of dress, elegance of his manners, and smartness of his repartee. He made personal cleanliness popular. Cleaning his teeth, shaving, and scrubbing in a bath daily. He dressed with simple elegance. Of understated elegance he once said: "If John Bull turns round to look after you, you are not well dressed; but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable."

The pumps, opera pumps, dancing pumps or court shoe in calf leather

Opera pumps and patent leather shoes with silk ribbon laces

Mr. "Beau" Brummel (Mr. George Bryan Brummel (1778-1840) below

Photos sourced from Vox sartoria and Georgian Index

Black Tie attire by the Royals

Black tie ensemble as illustrated from the 1935 Apparels. Note the two kind of dinner suitings, a double breasted jacket or single breasted with a shawl collar jacket. 
Below picture shows the standing Gent with a red boutonniere on the jacket lapel. White linen pocket square to add to the ensemble. Perfect so sartorial. 


Black tie or white tie dress code does not offer a plethora of options. You better know the rules when going black tie or white tie.

An illustration of the black tie dress code from 1935

HRH Prince Charles and his son HRH Prince William wearing Black tie ensemble. Both of the royalties are wearing double breasted dinner suitings. Not that Prince Charles opted for a colourful pocket square instead of the more traditionally white linen pocket square.
To compliment the dinner suit, he paired the suit with pumps. So classic. However HRH did not add a boutonniere to the jacket lapel. That would have been the topping. Well done Your Royal Highness .

In an earlier blog I mentioned that pumps are the "Über" formal dress shoes for weddings, black tie events or Opera visitings. However some men will opt for the patent leather shoes, or plain oxfords coupled with silk ribbon laces. That is acceptable as depicted on the below illustration from 1935. 

Below picture of HRH Prince Pavlos, classically dressed in black tie attire, white linen pocket square, no boutonniere, he complimented the dinner attire with a pair of patent leather shoes. Well done Your Highness.

HRH Prince William wearing a dinner suit with, ehhh....not pumps, nor patent leather shoes, or even a plain black cap toe oxford, but.......

Black full brogue oxford shoes with a dinner suit. Ups, Your Royal Highness. The whole black attire spoiled. 

Pictures sourced from Vox Sartoria and the Internet