Showing posts with label Glacage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Glacage. Show all posts

Sunday, 7 October 2012

Glacage Chaussures - The patina god (part II)

Patina art Master Paulus Bolten = Glacage Chaussures (France) is a legendary figure when it comes to the art of patina, cirage, glacage etc. When you enter his site all these 
terms are mentioned, I reckon each term has a deeper meaning to what it stands for and how it differs from the other terms. Master Paulus Bolten works with so many shoe makers and offers workshops in the art of patina. Wish we had an apostle like him in the Nordic, definitely I would be a follower. I am really looking forward to the new shoe site that will open in a few weeks from now. If I understand well, Master Paulus will be offering shoes that come with a patina from start. Hmmm, very interesting. A patina artist going shoemaking, nice touch.
Master Paulus Bolten (the patina Apostle himself), looking very dapper at an arrangement.
A pair of Berluti loafers that was treated & handled by Master Paulus.
 A Berluti pair softly handled by the hands of Master Paulus. I skipped some photos. but wanted to show the transformation of this pair from being dull and unattractive to a very appealing pair. Nice touch from Master Paulus.
 A pair of Gieves and Hawkes shoes after a gentle treatment by Master Bolten. 
A leather jacket before treatment by Master Paulus Bolten.
Same leather jacket after a good and loving treat by the hand of the patina Apostle, Master Paulus. A new and transformed jacket emerges. Beautiful. 
A class with the patina art disciples, followers having a good time.
Master Paulus Boten (left) again, a sartorial gent as one can see from his outfit and posture. 
Photos sourced from Master Paulus Bolten's site

Thursday, 20 September 2012

Hidden gems from Style Forum 2012 - Mr. Antonio25

It was some time since I last visited Style forum and as I was browsing through the shoe threads and forums when I came across a gent named Antonio25. According to Mr. Antonio25, he has worked for Kiton and Rubinacci, which are both Italian houses offering high-end men's clothing and shoes.  As I was reading through the "shoe damage report" thread, I noted that Mr. Antonio25 showed the below depicted well made shoes each with a very brilliant patina that brought the individual pair to higher grounds of admiration. To my surprise, Mr. Antonio was offering these hand made shoes, patina and all, for less than 500 Euros per pair minus postage and handling. I lost my jaw for a second or two. Why? Hmmm....look at them, these shoes shows that the maker has respect for the craft of bespoke shoemaking, is paying attention to the details, and not to mention that he has also mastered the art of the patina. A discipline for itself.
My favourites: the boot and the punched whole cut oxford. I think Mr. Antonio is just teasing my appetite and I am looking forward to the other dishes to be offered. So in short ....I am a very hungry man and waiting for a reply from Mr. Antonio25. More news on these beauties......and thanks Mr. Antonio25 for sharing these beauties with us at Style forum.
Strapped loafer with a nice shine
 Oxford laced boot with an amazing patina in tan and dark brown, I love the rendition of this boot and colouring.
 A beautiful loafer with a darkened toe
 Side laced oxford in a very beautiful red and black patina. I imagine this patina on a Chelsea boot, wonderful.
 A rendition of a wing tipped oxford in beautiful tan and light brown patina
 A Berlutisque rendition of a stitched apron oxford, the patina is breath taking
 A punched cap toe with a medallion on a burgundy whole cut oxford. Classy.
Photos sourced from Style forum

Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Patina & glacage of the day by Imai Hiroki (Japan)

I was on Facebook today and I found Imai Hiroki's Facebook profile with pictures of these beautiful patina and glacage shoes. These shoes are pieces of art work and are amazing and stunning, made not to be worn but placed and stored in a museum behind thick armoured glass for visitors to view and admire. 

He handles the leather he is working on like a painter will work on canvas. This is no more polishing of shoes & getting a shine, but pure art that brings the beauty of the hide/leather out. I am stunned. The French and Italian patina masters must be careful, as Imai Hiroki is the new Da Vinci, who pushes the art of patina and glacage to higher levels.  
View and decide for yourselves. Enjoy.

A Whole cut oxford painting by Laundry Lacour
Side laced wholecut with tiger motif by Master Hom
Comic strip inspired oxford, very cool by Master Hom
Oxford Balmoral boot in greyish/blue patina by Master Imai
Burgundy and grey whole cut bootie by Master Imai
Photos sourced from Imai Hiroki's Facebook profile and Forums Film Noir Buff

Monday, 16 April 2012

Shoe Patina & Glacage

A reader had a comment on this blog regarding my writing on an old pair of shoes (40+ years) recycled by HRH Prince Charles, comment was "the shoes looked lacquered and HRH needs to retire them".  That sparked an investigation from my side to find out what is the difference between Patina and Glacage.


I found out that bespoke shoemakers from France & Italy (are the true masters of both arts), please see blog on Hom, who is a master of the trade. But besides him there are several other artisans who will do the job on your old shoes or new shoes. If it is an old pair it will be revived to its glory, if a new pair then it will be given that dandy look that will differentiate it from the masses.


When attending to shoe polishing, there are different terms used, waxing, glossing, patina etc and the results are amazing and different. It is an art in itself to get and achieve the desired results whether it is the old style spit shine (gloss), which most of us can do or try to. But when it comes to patina, it is a different ball game.


Patina will look like the below depicted pictures which is different from glossing or spit shine. I suppose there is more work in patina creations as it can involve from two up to multiple colours to reach the desired effect of art.


Patina art:










Glacage (Gloss) work of art: My understanding is that shoe lovers bring their shoes to these artists for a revival, put new life into the leather and bring the shoes to their glory again. Looking at the results, I have to admit, these shoes look great and worth the money spent on the revival, whether it is glossing or patina creating.


Now back to what sparked the investigation, the comment from the reader was "HRH shoes looked as if they were lacquered" and I have to strongly disagree. Why would HRH lacquer a John Lobb bespoke shoe? Ah never mind, just my humble opinion.



Boots revival before and after revival (Gloss)


Shoe before revival and after 




Boot before patina and after 


Photos sourced from Paulus Bolten and Pierre Paul of Talon rouge