Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Nikolaus tuzcek. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Nikolaus tuzcek. Sort by date Show all posts

Tuesday, 27 March 2012

The Ultimate Bespoke Shoemaker Nikolaus Tuczek

The Rolls Royce, the Leornado Da Vinci of shoemaking, Nikolaus Tuczek Ltd were boot and shoe makers who traded from 1853-1970. The company was taken over by John Lobb in 1970.

Quote From Classic shoes for men : "The late, lamented firm of Tuczek of #17 Clifford Street, W1, bespoke society shoemaker, is a legend in the trade among historians and collectors. The importance of this master is only confirmed by the fact that George Cleverley, considered by some to be the finest shoemaker of the late 20th century, began his career with Nikolaus Tuczek in 1920 and remained with the firm 38 years before opening his own workshop. Tuczek’s designs are exceptionally sleek and most often feature his characteristic chiseled toe and elastic side gussets. It can be conjectured that this was Tuczek’s legacy as there is little to compare with the dramatic lasting, the intricate detailing, and the painstaking construction of the Tuczek shoe. But finally it is the overall effect of the design, the harmony of decoration and sculptural form that distinguishes this shoemaker. There is very little to be found from the last half century that possesses the stylistic boldness or charm of this present pair."

I consider Mr. Nikolaus Tuzcek, The "Leonardo Da Vinci" of Bespoke shoemaking, the Grandmaster of all masters, the sculptor above all, a Man that has inspired so many bespoke shoemakers and keeps doing so with his creations which are over a half century or more old in design and style. Mr. Tuczek's creations, are one of a kind and so was the man.

The art works I have seen from Mr.Tuzcek's hand, are quite exceptional, unique, artistic by design, harmonious, innovative and ground breaking. 

The man, the name has become a legend within bespoke shoemaking. In honour of Mr. Nikolaus Tuzcek.

The famous Tuzcek chisel toe
The insole of a Lady's shoe
 The Lady shoe itself
 Brogue slip-ons
 The insole labels from different periods in London 

 The Full Brogue oxford



 Wholecut Adelaide in blue suede

 A monk in suede

A Semi brogue

 A spectator (1)



 Full brogue side gusset with false laces in Lizard


Spectator (2)



Crocodile side gusset




Full brogue in  brown




Lizard Full brogue side gusset slip-on

 Two tier brown Derby

Photos sourced from The Centipede and Engrandepompe 

Friday, 7 September 2012

Cliff Roberts - The Chocolate brown Bespoke Monk

It is said "all good things come to those who wait", how true. I month or more ago I received a very special pair of chocolate bespoke monks from Master Cliff Roberts of Northampton, England. The pair is very special to me, as it is offered by Master Roberts for being a patient client. Yes, "all good things come to those who wait"! 
Of those of you who do not know Master Roberts, I will give a brief history. 
Master Roberts has been in the shoe making industry for many years, working for one of the known shoemakers from Northampton and he has over 30 years of experience in the shoemaking industry. About a year and a half ago or more he decided to go on his own, becoming a "one man operation" (like Eric Cook) offering bespoke shoes to clients all over the world. Setting up business for yourself has it's up and downs and at the same time bills have to be paid. 
I encountered Master Roberts by ordering my first pair of shoes from him (more than two years ago), received a very well made pair and I was a happy client. Same year ordered another pair, and another. The last pair (brown pebble grain side gusset) took longer than anticipated and as promised by Master Roberts, but I had no issue with that. A long story short, due to the long wait on the last pair, Master Roberts made this beautiful pair of chocolate brown single monk for me on his square chissel toe last. A very astonishing shoe, elegant, simple and classic. The inner lining is "racing green" typical Jaguar and Rolls Royce colours, the sole of the shoe is different from what you have seen from his hand. The topping is the heel with red heel and gold colouring at the edges or corners of the heel. The waist of the shoe is much slender (slim) compared to the other shoes I have from him, elegant.  Master Roberts has made a unique sole for this pair that distinguishes this monk from the rest. The leather is just amazing. Could not really get good pictures of the shine, the fit is like a glove to the hand. Simply amazing. I have worn the shoe indoors several times, each time it feels better.
This pair becomes my second pair of monks, I had a pair many years ago whilst a student and since I have been thinking of commissioning a monk ....and Master Roberts made my wishes come true. I simply like this pair, as it came as a surprise from Master Roberts. It resembles a suede monk executed by Nikolaus Tuzcek, seen here. Well done Master Roberts.

Thank you Master Roberts for a pleasant surprise and a beautiful rendition of a monk. Words can not describe my gratitude.

Here I give you Master Roberts bespoke single monk in chocolate brown colour and racing green inner lining with the unique sole rendition.
The Nikolaus Tuzcek styled square chissel toe
The unique very slim waist, the red heel with the gold on the inner edge. Wow!
Simple and elegant.
 Pictures sourced from Master Cliff Roberts and myself

Wednesday, 28 March 2012

Cliff Roberts, a Northampton, bespoke shoemaker

Mr. Clifford Roberts is an English independent, one man operation bespoke shoemaker, from Northampton (England). Mr. Roberts has been in the shoe making industry for decades, employed by one of the Northampton shoemakers.

Mr. Roberts has been making shoes to members of the (Style forum) and as of last year (2011) decided to go solo (independent, working from home) on the bespoke shoe making business project. As of current, Mr. Roberts has two lasts of his own, a chisel-square and a classic round last. Both lasts are elegant, stylish and very English. My favourite one is the chisel-square, as it has some Nikolaus Tuzcek over it.  

Mr. Roberts artistic rendition of the clients desire are well interpreted. I will be ordering more shoes/boots from the honourable gent.  

I am very pleased with his work and I highly recommend his services to all shoe lovers, shoe AristoCats, Shoe Snobs or just simple shoe collectors, who wish to have something special in their shoe wardrobe.

Welcome to Mr. Clifford Roberts.

My first pair of black side gussets on the making, hand work, as you can see.

The below photos were taken by Mr. Robert's wife during the making process.









 The above pair of shoes did not fit well, not Mr. Robert's fault, as I did not supply a last nor did he measure my feet. I just placed an order. A few emails went back and forth in regards to fit and adjustments, and decided to order the below galoshed oxford.

My second pair, black Balmoral two toned oxford (black & grey). The below pair was commissioned for a formal wedding. Mr. Roberts supplied the pair just in time for the wedding. Wonderful, well designed and balanced shoes.
This pair was getting closer, but still a bit of adjustments were needed here and there. Again I stress, it was not Mr. Roberts fault.





 My third pair, brown pebble grain, side gussets. In between the pair above and the below side gusset, Mr. Roberts sent me a trial pair of shoes, then some back and forth mails. We ended up with the correct approach. I left the design to Mr. Roberts, however stated what I wanted, style, pattern and in what kind of leather. A year later, the below beauties came. A very pleasant surprise.

This pair fits like a glove to a hand, so very perfect. I am happy that Mr. Roberts, spent time explaining to me what needed to be adjusted on his original last to produce a last of my own.

I am still working on the colour, I am slowly getting there. The leather is of good quality, and takes a graceful shine. All of the brown pebble photos were taken by me.



 The colour below is closer to the true colour of the shoes, still working on getting the right colour.
Cap-toe in detail
 Back part of the shoe
 The sole work of the shoes
Close up of  the chisel-square, Tuzcek style.

Balmoral boots (sourced from The Styleforum

 A Balmoral on the making

 Black and grey balmoral

 Two-toned (brown on brown) Balmoral boots

 Two-toned (black & grey) Balmoral boots with cap-toe

 Diamond cap Balmoral boots
 A tan Balmoral boot on the making

 An austerity brogue balmoral boot
   
Mr. Roberts has been working on a buttoned Balmoral boot for about two years for another client, I saw the pictures, beautifully done, my understanding from Mr. Roberts, is that it was time consuming. I can not show the photos of the boots here without the consent of the client and or Mr. Roberts.

All boots sourced from The Styleforum