Tuesday, 17 July 2012

GJ Cleverley - Churchill side gusset shoe

I picked up the below GJ Cleverley renditioning of a full brogue side gusset with false laces made of cordovan hide. I have earlier mentioned that I have a special like for the side gussets because they are very easily taken off or on when traveling and having to pass airport security, secondly they can be used with suits and odd jackets.  Why is this pair so special? It is my understanding that the English shoemakers are not so willing to use cordovan (leather from a horses rear), due to cordovan being very difficult, stiff and hard to work with. As far as I recall continental Europe, Vass (Hungary), Carmina (Spain) and Jan Kielman (Poland) do offer shoes in cordovan. Yes, Crockett & Jones (England) has very few models made of cordovan. A GJ Cleverley (Anthony Cleverley model) made of cordovan. Never seen a GJ Cleverley model shoe in cordovan, therefore sampling this pair for the day.

My humble opinion is that cordovan is hard to break but once done it shapes to the wearer's feet. Cordovan leather is tough and stiff however very water resistant compared to calf leather/hide. I would prefer to have the below pair made of Russian Reindeer leather salvaged from "Die Fraumetta Catharina Von Flensburg" vessel that sunk in 1786 near Plymouth(England). The lost cargo was first salvaged in 1973. I mentioned the Russian Reindeer leather earlier here.

The below model is a Made To Order from Leather Soul Hawaii in brown Horween shell cordovan leather. Very stunning shoe and I like the warm brown colour on the cordovan.
Photos sourced from Leather Soul Hawaii

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